To Peek at Topeka: HHNC
Yes, Topeka of all places. Like you, perhaps, I had no actual first-hand knowledge of this mysterious land they call Kansas. All I really know is that it has a reputation for being flat, and hot, and dull, and that its very name is literally a synonym for plain and ordinary, as in "We're not in Kansas anymore." And all I really knew about Topeka is that it's the home of the Westboro Baptist Church, as well as -- speaking of religious nuts -- the home of former governor Sam Brownback's fabulous failed tax experiment. Stephen King also saw fit to make use of the place, specifically Gage Park, in the Wizard and Glass book of his Dark Tower series.
We were there for more prosaic reasons though and sadly, we were unable to ride a miniature train into another dimension which is, as I understand it, what happens to the characters in Wizard and Glass. On the other hand, we were very pleasantly surprised by the quality of food. We had excellent burgers, Italian food, and a very good meal at a place called The Blind Tiger whose logo is so bitchin' that I bought myself a tee shirt. First time I've ever bought a restaurant/brewery shirt. Blind Tiger also sponsors the tiger exhibit at the Topeka Zoo, which is another reason to like them. On the other hand, we ate at a chicken place where the experience could best be summed up like so. Go watch. I'll wait. Speaking of cutting you, we learned that Topeka has a terrible reputation due to its high crime rate, although what struck me is the way it appeared that all the white trash from the wretched little rural county where I work as a social worker had somehow multiplied their numbers and built themselves a city with buildings and sidewalks and everything. Topeka seemed to be a city that will cut your candy ass at the slightest provocation. It felt rather a lot like Little Rock and in fact, that could be a good tourism slogan for the city: "Topeka: It's basically Little Rock!" Other potential slogans might be "Topeka: Comfortable, like your fat pants" and "Topeka: Shockingly tolerable!" -- because it was. I was stunned by how comfortable the place felt, even with so many people walking around with visible track marks and no teeth. It felt rather homey, all things considered, which was absolutely mindblowing for a guy born and raised in the mountains. And the real fun of it is that we'll likely have to go back there at least two or three more times. Perhaps on one of those future trips I can take more than just these crappy photos with my phone. (Note: I apologize if youtube forces you to watch a commercial before you can get to the music I thought fit these pictures. They've been awful for that recently.) https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=5B59E7D1 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...34&oe=5B8DC19A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5B965CA0 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...25&oe=5B552130 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cc&oe=5B98880F The Mulvane Art Museum had a fascinating exhibit on what the art in museums tends to look like before the conservators get their hands on it. We're talking paintings stained brown with nicotine, paintings that are flaking, buckling, cracking, paintings that have had other paint or turpentine slopped on them, paintings whose frames have suffered God knows what all indignities, and even paintings with water damage, which leads us to... https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...67&oe=5B9AA2B9 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0c&oe=5B4F312A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...08&oe=5B5A7ACD https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ae&oe=5B588122 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d5&oe=5B5A3ECF https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c9&oe=5B9B471A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...aa&oe=5B8EB6EC https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...77&oe=5B97E4BB https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...89&oe=5B526D12 This guy and his jaunty top hat make appearances all over town. He usually seems to be in a great honking hurry. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6e&oe=5B890EEE https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...05&oe=5B5CA680 It's really not just any town where one could get a hankering for frozen yogurt in the evening and pass by the Westboro Baptist Church, not to mention the Equality House across the street, while on the way to find a frozen treat. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a3&oe=5B5A8172 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9e&oe=5B509A49 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dd&oe=5B8BDFBC https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6b&oe=5B9404BD On our second day there we visited the Topeka Zoo. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...55&oe=5B92FA90 The indoor rain forest alone was worth the price of admission. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e9&oe=5B52C509 Bats. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...19&oe=5B9B4CE6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...32&oe=5B937D7F https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...dc&oe=5B57DC3D https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c6&oe=5B990359 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...81&oe=5B8770CB https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...1e&oe=5B9AD158 The bananas of Kansas: https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...53&oe=5B9D0737 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7c&oe=5B5961E4 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9b&oe=5B510820 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6b&oe=5B981D8F https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...58&oe=5B5022D6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...69&oe=5B971647 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...20&oe=5B53F08A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b6&oe=5B516DF1 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=5B8DF983 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...42&oe=5B8E4C97 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...72&oe=5B9839BC After the zoo we went across the street to an Italian restaurant where we were seated on the red patio... https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e9&oe=5B521B1B ...and dined upon the red lasagna! https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5d&oe=5B55215F Then we went and got Hawaiian ice and enjoyed it in this bleak little courtyard. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d6&oe=5B8B81D6 On our last day there we hung out downtown and in the North Topeka Arts District. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...be&oe=5B5E19E6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...05&oe=5B508172 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5e&oe=5B92EDA9 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b6&oe=5B8675BC https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...31&oe=5B8A80F1 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...65&oe=5B85DE00 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...98&oe=5B8666B3 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a7&oe=5B99E9F0 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...27&oe=5B5D63A2 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ec&oe=5B90DD01 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e3&oe=5B8DF9C6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...03&oe=5B8CA1F5 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...db&oe=5B8A6D84 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...91&oe=5B9BB297 Fun fact: In Wizard and Glass the Topeka the characters encounter is the Topeka in the world of The Stand, a world devastated and nearly depopulated by plague. So... this is the sort of thing the characters would have seen. Meanwhile, here in our world I'm really not sure why a drywall company would advertise itself with skeletons in a hearse at a classic car show. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2e&oe=5B89EA62 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b6&oe=5B8B6EFE https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fd&oe=5B5B7B3C https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...92&oe=5B959B89 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fc&oe=5B4F68AF https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c2&oe=5B565B9C https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...1a&oe=5B58D1AD https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...70&oe=5B919437 Fly swatters... https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...25&oe=5B9560EB ...which honor this doctor who made it his mission to improve the public health of Topeka by ridding the city of pests and the noxious habits which helped them to thrive. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...52&oe=5B9656C4 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b4&oe=5B5A5926 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bc&oe=5B955F16 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fd&oe=5B570FE8 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...58&oe=5B93C401 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...66&oe=5B88B7C2 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5c&oe=5B878AE2 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...4d&oe=5B50FBE6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0d&oe=5B8FA40E https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a2&oe=5B98C788 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e1&oe=5B98726D https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6d&oe=5B8B7D45 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bc&oe=5B8BE665 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cf&oe=5B9B04F0 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=5B8FE704 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...44&oe=5B95E028 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...10&oe=5B9541AE https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a3&oe=5B985F5F https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6b&oe=5B8DA1D1 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...73&oe=5B58BA10 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a3&oe=5B51A3B3 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...55&oe=5B535018 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=5B962BF3 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...a5&oe=5B50F750 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...40&oe=5B9C3FCB https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...1c&oe=5B88DD59 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fb&oe=5B5B7E16 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...64&oe=5B92BA72 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5B9B57B8 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...16&oe=5B902B81 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f1&oe=5B94EBDA "Regressive legislation, prepared fresh for you every day!" https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...94&oe=5B93415C https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...f1&oe=5B8AEC99 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...73&oe=5B91616D It has always irritated the piss out of me how other states get nice capitols, while North Carolina makes due with a dull old relic that looks like a smallish county's courthouse, and a new relic that looks like a Brady Bunch set piece. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...3d&oe=5B87E803 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...45&oe=5B9BD10D https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...90&oe=5B520469 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...08&oe=5B550B11 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5B919D49 There would have been yet more photos of murals, but the capitol building was closing and we had to get out... although not before I bought a really nice poster of Carrie Nation in the gift shot. That's going on the wall right over the liquor cabinet at home. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...87&oe=5B90F9CE https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...14&oe=5B535765 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...56&oe=5B561A06 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b6&oe=5B5004EF https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ce&oe=5B8E8973 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...22&oe=5B56C85A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7d&oe=5B8F5CDC Downtown Topeka is awash in public art, and some of it is quite nice. There would have been even more pictures of it, but unfortunately some photos -- such as the one of the giant pencil and the one of the NAACP statue just didn't come out at all. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...49&oe=5B5C7B42 Pay no attention to the fat, bloated creature with flyaway hair taking the photo. Pay attention to the tee shirt. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9c&oe=5B8CA506 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e9&oe=5B59FF85 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...da&oe=5B903678 We had to park in the space designated for the oral auction winner to take this picture, and I assure you that I wouldn't do that for just anyone. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d1&oe=5B880525 It turned out that "arts district" is perhaps too grand a term for what you find in North Topeka, much the way that a friend noted on facebook that I appeared to be having a blast and I told her that perhaps "blast" is too strong a word to use when describing what one has in Topeka. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...bd&oe=5B51656B https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6b&oe=5B875701 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...94&oe=5B4EDE39 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...8e&oe=5B5567EB https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5a&oe=5B87B6B0 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...8a&oe=5B532BF4 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5B52597F https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7d&oe=5B5CBF79 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c4&oe=5B9C2054 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ca&oe=5B573820 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...21&oe=5B501016 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ec&oe=5B4FB15A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b1&oe=5B57B599 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...cb&oe=5B58445D https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e6&oe=5B542CAB Fun fact: In Wizard and Glass the characters explore this train station and find several mummified corpses of people who had been trying the flee the plague. One of the characters notes how futile the gesture was and asks just where it was they had been trying to go. Had anyplace been safe as the disease swept the land? Likely not. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2d&oe=5B9309E6 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...4f&oe=5B8D8B46 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...db&oe=5B58E6A5 There were holes in the roof visible through the top floor windows. On the second floor, you could see that at some point in the past, someone had painted the rooms a fetching green and orange color scheme. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fe&oe=5B5AB78A https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...20&oe=5B9B6E55 https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...24&oe=5B55DE8E https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d5&oe=5B5878E6 I really, truly do wish Topeka the best. I actually liked the place and I want to reiterate that the food was wonderful. Topeka had a vibe that reminded me of Asheville circa the mid 90's. Rundown, dirty, gritty, dangerous, but with enormous potential. I hope that the people there can bring it back and turn it into something wonderful. I hope the kind of people who'd want that sort of thing -- as opposed, say, to the folks who think Westboro has a lot of good points -- will stay and work and fight like hell to make Topeka into what it could be and ought to be. I hope they'll stay instead of take the easy way out and move to Kansas City, Chicago, and even Wichita, where the momentum is already rolling along. It takes an incredible amount of work to move a rock like Topeka, but as Asheville proves, it's more than worth it to get it up to the top of the hill. Good luck, Topeka. I'll likely be seeing you again. |
Thank you Topeka is rare on this forum actually on any forums too.
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Nice pictures. Topeka doesn't look too bad. Did it have a prairie feel, or does Topeka feel more like it's in a farmland region similar to Illinois or Iowa?
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...Which is a shame because there's a lot of urbanity in the world beyond the big dogs. Quote:
I'm not sure I'm qualified to describe a "prairie feel" versus a farmland field, but one thing that did surprise me, coming from the South, was that urban development pretty much slammed to a halt right outside town. There was a very clear delineation between town and country. All of a sudden you were out in the fields. |
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ah, the infamous topeka. http://www.i-mockery.com/minimocks/p...omobiles/3.gif when i lived in kansas city, i rarely went west of lawrence into kansas (which amazingly feels totally different than topeka) unless i was going all the way to the front range or less common, to the flint hills and manhattan (kansas) which once again, feels different than topeka. https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fb&oe=5B5B7E16 the kansa, or more common regionally the kaw tribe member with the bow and arrow pointed at the north star. this iconic statue on the dome a classic waypoint on I-70 for me on the way to the rockies. sort of a signal that the land is starting to slowly but surely bend skyward from the influence of the rocky mountains, and the "gate" to the proper great plains. thanks for the photos. |
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Interesting. Thanks for the set.
I haven't been there as an adult, but as a kid & teen my family drove through Topeka on I-70 at least a dozen times on long cross-country road trips. My main memory of it is how different it feels depending on which direction you're driving. If you're heading west, you don't think about it much at all. There's only a half hour of country in-between the KC & Topeka suburbs, with Lawrence smack in the middle of that, so it really doesn't seem isolated or far or special. But ho-boy, things are different coming east. Coming east you spend hours and hours in the depths of the Great Plains, feeling (and being) in the absolute middle of nowhere. For 500 freaking miles between Denver and Topeka, you're lucky to get a Dairy Queen and McDonalds at any highway exit, much less anything that you could reasonably call a city. It's an entire day of driving. But then you get to Topeka. And small and dusty though Topeka may be, Topeka is a city. You get there and you throw your hands up in the air and sing a literal hallelujah, because finally you've reached the first outpost of metropolitan America, of civilization itself. I am not exaggerating. Approaching Topeka from the west is an emotional experience. tl;dr this is you arriving in Topeka from the west: https://media.giphy.com/media/3oFzm9...G1ry/giphy.gif |
Anyway, my mental image of Topeka is pretty much exactly your first picture. That distinctly urban view from I-70 is permanently ingrained into my brain. But that's all that is, since I only traveled through as a kid and never got the chance to explore it off the highway.
Also the state house dome fountain is adorable. |
Awesome tour. Thanks!
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perhaps that bias also prevented me from digging in to topeka...i didnt know it had some of these things. historically speaking lawrence is the liberal yang to the topeka (whatever) ying. |
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Mark my words I will do the exact same trip like yours from Denver to Topeka to experience the feelings and emotions as you described. Preliminary plan is something like this: in year of 2022, to fly to Denver from LA or SF, have to skip SLC cuz it is said boring. Then to drive from Denver to KCMO to experience the ... so tired of in the middle of nowhere all day ... wait wait see some urban stuff (in Manhattan) ... oh man more urbanism (in Topeka) ... and hallelujah finally back to civilization (in KCMO, actually been there in 2011 had an alright metropolitan minute, especially when in Crown Plaza area, spending some decent time at the mall the Hallmark the hotels the parks and the monument and looking to downtown skyline, yeah that 500-mile was worthy of the emotion and all). |
Did not know there was an "equality house" across the street from Westboro. That's awesome! Great tour!
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Kansas is like a lot of states that can defy stereotypes. The eastern part of the state is green, somewhat hilly, and woodsy in places. As for the people, it's like all red states. It's not that there aren't a lot of intelligent, educated, decent people. It's just that the far right wing extremists and politicians get so much attention that folks don't realize there are other people there, including lots of moderates and liberals. In my line of work, I've worked with many people from Kansas who were absolutely wonderful people. They're very embarrassed by Brownback and Westboro in particular, both of which seem to define Kansas.
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Thanks for the comments, everyone.
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Thank you for posting these. I can't recall ever seeing Topeka here. It looks interesting, a little more rundown than I expected but overall seems to be in good shape.
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It looks like 1983.
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