Omaharocks:
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Ensenada looks interesting - despite being fairly close to the border, it doesn't have a border town vibe from what I can tell (though I'm only really familiar with Juarez and Agua Prieta), and seems to be relatively prosperous.
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That seems to be my experience. Although Ensenada is still a bit of a tourist town, it is far more authentic than Tijuana. I consider Ensenada the start of real Baja (which is a great vacation if anyone is looking to take a road trip).