Rome is green. neighborhoods are densely built, sometimes with no green at all, especially in the historic core. but through and between these super compact built areas, there are many hills and ravines covered with woods, former «villas» nicely landscaped (now public parks), and all these ancient sites where vegetation grows abundantly. There's always a bench and a fountain waiting for you under an unbrella pine.
About the food, I had the chance to live in a non-touristy area (south of the Trastevere - Via Portuense) filled with cafés, trattorias, snack counters, pretty much everything was good and cheap. Local stuff. Even in the touristy areas, if you see a place wich it's not too flashy/fancy and pricey, no costumes, no musicians, no folk/romantic decor, it's usually good.
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Originally Posted by mr1138
Monti is perhaps the most authentic gem in the entire city.
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I agree, Monti is an architectural orgy of different eras, styles and colors, plenty of vistas. Surprisingly quiet, considering it's close to the Forum and the Colosseum. Other cool areas : Coppedè, San Lorenzo (at night) and around Piramide.