Quote:
Originally Posted by harryc
^^ TYVM ! - I have spent too many hours tuck-pointing, and didn't understand why as well as I do after that.
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Tuckpointing is hard work and gets old fast, but it's oddly satisfying kinda like floating drywall. Just make sure you always use no harder than type O preferably type N mortar which is a Sandy beige color, never use harder modern type S or M which contain high amounts of cement and appear grey or white. Any time you see that color mortar in a Chicago common wall you know it's doomed to dissopve. Or, if you want to be old school mix your own mortar out of 4 parts sand to 1 part lime. It's not an exact science and I've seen Masons literally just measure with a shovel when they only want a little bit of mix. 3 scoops lime to 9 scoops sand or whatever they need.
In theory you should also never use a grinder on old brick either since it's so soft or you will trash the perfectly precise old joints which I've seen laid to a 16th of an inch tolerance. The right way to do it is to match the mortar you are using to existing stuff and take an appropriately sized pointing chisel to the joint only removing loose bits and filling them as you go. Also most people don't realize the variety in color that old mortars can have, many older red brick walls, for example, used charcoal grey which really makes the brick pop. Many walls are ruined when someone repoints them with white or some other color mortar that doesn't match the original design. I actually just ripped white pointing out of the joints in one building and replaced it all with the original charcoal that was underneath.