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Old Posted Jun 26, 2011, 6:24 AM
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Recap of my Bay Area Trip

This first post is basically copied from my other thread (http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=191566). I though it would be more appropriate to recount my trip in a new thread.



I'm back from my trip now (actually, I came back 4 days ago). For everyone who posted suggestions, I thank you deeply. Many thanks to you Gordo and SLO. I spent maybe 4 hours total in Sacramento, Fusey, and 2 of those hours were spent looking for and eating at a Chinese Restaurant (we ended up at the New Station Restaurant, which was pretty good). So no Underground tour, unfortunately. I'll get more to my musings on San Francisco's Chinese food later on, but the general consensus in my household - it utterly and completely trounces the Chinese food in NYC (we are, of course, talking about Cantonese cuisine. The Northern Chinese and Taiwanese cuisine are not too prevalent in San Francisco, and probably in the Bay Area in general).

CyberEric and Flight: Alas, your posts came a bit too late, as that was the last whole day that I spend in San Francisco. And Flight - as it turns out, my parents mostly wanted to see the popular sights and sounds of the city, so the only history museum we ended up going to was the Chinese Historical Society's museum. It's a good museum, and it ties into my whole story about this West Coast trip (as I mentioned above, my mother was interested in Walnut Grove and Locke. More on that later on.). And as this was my first time in the city, experiencing sights and sounds was probably a good idea. But I will heed your suggestions on my next trip to the area.

I will try to recount my trip daily for the next week-and-a-half. Since I landed in San Francisco exactly 2 weeks ago, I will use that timeframe to recount my trip - that is, tomorrow is Sunday, so I will recount my Sunday from 2 weeks back, and so forth. Now onwards!


Our trip was not off to an auspicious start. Our flight at LaGuardia was delayed for about an hour due to inclement weather (most likely the flight coming into the airport). Luckily, we did not have to connect to another flight in Charlotte, since we would be staying on the same flight to San Francisco. And now, in retrospect, it seems clear why our flight was delayed at LaGuardia - Charlotte was also experiencing bad weather. So after we arrived in Charlotte, and waited to take off on the plane again, a thunderstorm ran right into our path. Bummer. (If you can't tell, this flight was a US Airways flight - Charlotte is a major hub).

So after about 45 minutes, we take off. The plane is crowded, but the seat is comfortable enough to sleep in. After 5 hours, we touch down in San Francisco. Finally - my first time touching Californian soil.

Unfortunately, it is now 2AM. SFO is practically deserted. As I make my way to the exit, I pick up a brochure for the BART trains. Perusing the brochure, I found out it stopped running at midnight. So my father gets the idea that the hotel might have a shuttle available. I hook up my laptop to the airport's Wi-Fi to look up the hotel's phone number. The concierge informs us there is no formal hotel shuttle, but there are shuttle services available at $17 a head. Pretty steep. We decide to catch a cab instead. We're quoted $40 for the trip. Let's roll.

As we speed down the 101 north towards the city, we see that we have arrived on a rather foggy night. The surrounding landscapes are hidden behind a slight mist, though the objects are largely visible. As we pass through the hills, we finally arrive in the city. As I view the city from the highway, with its buildings enshrouded in the mist in the foreground and the hills in the backdrop, I am reminded vaguely of some drives at night through Hong Kong, albeit at a shorter scale. As we travel along Kearney St., I am struck by the number of revelers and drunks along the road, as well as the general frumpiness of the downtown compared with the sharpness of a Midtown or Lower Manhattan that is mostly devoid of souls. (Part of this frumpiness, I think, comes from the electric lines above used for the buses.)

We finally arrive at the hotel (Hilton Financial District). Talking to the concierge, we discover that this hotel does not have triple beds, as the travel booking company representative assured us when we paid them (we used the company to get a cheaper rates). To me, it comes as no surprise, as I've never heard of any hotel having 3 beds in a room. But it greatly upsets my father, who feels ripped off by the travel company.* My mother finally convinces the concierge to put in a folding bed so we wouldn't have to stay all crammed in (this, after the concierge insisted that the addition of a folding bed into the room would cause a fire hazard. We learn that this concierge was full of shit).

So we finally go up to the hotel room. It's a bit small, but no surprise, given this was a hotel room located at a good location in an expensive city. But we learn quickly that the room has a lot of small touches that makes efficient use of the limited space (a sliding bathroom door, a long table/desk along the window, a slimline couch on the wall opposite the beds). It's so efficiently put together that when the folding bed (my bed) shows up, we were able to simply slide the slimline couch along the wall towards the closet and bathroom area, and place the bed where the couch used to be (as opposed to forcing the poor hotel worker to drag the couch out of the room and into storage somewhere). And as our experience later on at the Holiday Inn Golden Gateway will show, the Hilton people clearly knew what they were doing with their rooms.

When I finally go to sleep, it's 4 AM in the morning. The next-door construction site, nearby buildings, and Coit Tower on the hill remain enshrouded in the mist and the darkness outside our window, and it's time to rest for the next day. (And as we learn during the daytime, part of the 'enshroudment' effect came from the fact that the windows were just plain dirty, possibly from the nearby construction site dust).


* As it turns out, this travel company was the far better of the two travel companies we dealt with on this trip. More on the other company later on.
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Old Posted Jun 28, 2011, 12:16 AM
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Look forward to hearing about the trip.

The Holiday Inn that you mentioned is on my list of buildings to be destroyed should I ever have a free set of explosives and a way to detonate them without hurting anyone. Terribly ugly building that creates all sorts of nasty wind tunnels in the area.

Actually, now that I think about it, the Hilton that you stayed in is also one of my least favorite buildings in the city, just because of its relationship (or lack thereof) with the streets around it. The Hilton does have decent rooms though (definitely better than the Holiday Inn) - I stayed there for a couple weeks many moons ago.
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Old Posted Jun 29, 2011, 5:04 AM
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I guess I was a bit too ambitious with my plans of posting a recap of each day of my trip two weeks later. It's not surprising, really, given my ambitious standards combined with my penchant for procrastination. Luckily, much of Wednesday and Thursday of the trip were spent sleeping on a tour bus, so I won't need to say too much about the trip (I might even combine the two days into one post). Without further interruption, here's the first Sunday of my trip, about 2 and a half weeks ago:




After sleeping at 4AM the previous night (or is it considered early morning?), I fully expected to wake up around 11AM in the morning. Hopefully. In fact, I woke up to my mother telling me it was 11AM. However, her phone had not changed its time when we arrived like mine had, so it was still on East Coast time. So that means that I was wide awake and refreshed at 8AM...after less than 4 hours of sleep. I'm starting to love it out here - it makes me feel less lazy.

After showering and getting dressed, we head out to get some breakfast in Chinatown, which is literally across the street. Of course, we have no idea what restaurants are good and what restaurants are not, so my mother asks around. We basically get no good answer from the locals we do ask. After about 10 minutes, we decide to go to a place with the Siu Lop (Cantonese BBQ meats, which includes roast pork and roasted pig) in the window. Good decision. My mother loves congee, and the restaurant's menu had the right types of congee for her. I decide to order a 3 combination on rice (3 types of Siu Lop on rice) and share some of my parent's congee. When the food arrives, my mother gives the congee a taste, and after a few spoonfuls, declares that it is better than any congee in NYC. Which isn't that hard to do - we have found precious few places that serve decent congee in NYC.

Tangent - a few years back on one of these threads, I made the passionate case that NYC's Chinese food was better than the Chinese food of the majority of the United States. I still stand by that claim, but even my parents and I have been disenchanted by the declining quality of Cantonese food in our city. It started with the close of the Natural Restaurant on Allen Street in Manhattan's Chinatown, and we have never been able to go to a restaurant as good as it was. But though we knew that NYC's Cantonese Food was starting to become rather meh, we had no idea that SF's Cantonese Food would absolutely trounce it as badly as it did. It makes me thankful, really, that I had the chance to experience it.

Back on topic.

My 3 combination on rice dish is very good as well - the roasted pig skin is very crisp and flavorful, but the roast pork was the real champion here. Unlike in NYC, where the roast pork tends to be drenched in sweet honey, the roast pork we had at this restaurant eschewed the honey, which tends to mask the taste of the pork a bit. We got to taste the roast pork all alone in all its glory, and it was quite glorious. So glorious, in fact, we bought some for our flight back several days later.

After breakfast/lunch, we walk around Chinatown. I had mentioned that my mother had some relatives in Locke and Walnut Grove, which is why we wanted to visit those towns. It turns out that that relative was my great-grandfather, who my mother loved deeply because he helped raise her (her father, my grandfather, didn't see lay eyes on here until she was 16. He was in the U.S. at that time, pushing, ahem, pro-Communist agendas in the States. So in the Skybar Genealogy Thread, I was only half joking with my claims. Of course, I was not raised on a pro-Communist agenda. Nor did I go to Americanization re-education camps. But I am a REAL American ).

It turns out my great-grandfather also worked in one of the movie theaters within San Francisco, sweeping its floors and doing other errands. Many of these theaters were owned and operated by the Chinese Communist Party. We spent much of that morning looking for and asking the older locals about the whereabouts of the various theaters. This is what we were able to find:

Here is the what we think is the most likely theater that my great-grandfather worked in. It is now some sort of mall with different types of shops:





Here are a couple of others we believe used to be movie theaters. The third one picture shows the Gold Mountain Restaurant; we believe a former theater used to be located in the shuttered area to the left of the restaurant (within the same building), and to the right of the pet store:






But we did not expect to find what turned out to be the most exciting find of that morning. As we perused the various grocery markets and bakeries along Stockton Street, we found ourselves in front of an unassuming door. A nearby sign stated that this was home of the Tung Sen Benevolent Association, Tung Sen being the archaic romanticization of the current region of Zhong San in the Guangdong Province in China. More relevantly, Zhong San (or Tung Sen) is my mother's hometown.

So we went up the stairs to the Benevolent Association's office, and rang the doorbell. After several rings, an old man comes up from the raucous mahjong room that we had passed on the way up, and tells us that the office does not open up until 2PM. My mother says no worries, but explains that she's from New York and was visiting SF, and was simply interested in connecting with her hometown's benevolent association. That exchange led to a further 45 minutes of friendly conversation between my mother and the old man, an officer at the Benevolent Association, as the man let us in to see its offices:





The last picture shows an appreciation letter to the Association from former President Clinton.

If I remember correctly, much of the conversation between my mother and the man revolved around reminiscing about their hometown, and the role the hometown emigrates played in SF. The one key thing in the conversation that I remembered was the part when my mother mentioned her mother's name (my grandmother, who died about 20 years ago). The man was completely taken aback by the fact that this was the daughter of my grandmother, who was an important Communist official in the Zhong San region (my grandmother was also famous for her renowned beauty, which makes me wonder how I became so ugly. ).

So after that busy morning, my parents needed a rest and headed back to the hotel for a nap (luckily, it's nearby. ). After the rest, with the Game 6 of the NBA Finals was coming up (and earlier than I had expected - it was an 8PM Eastern game, but I thought it was a 9PM Eastern game like most of the others, so I came back to my hotel room as halftime was about to end), I had to cut the rest of my planned trip short.

So no Sunday Streets of 3rd Street, as Gordo had kindly suggested. I still tried to kinda make it by walking along the Embarcadero, taking in the standard sights along the way (Ferry Building, giant bow-and-arrow sculpture, views of the Bay Bridge). But I knew we were only going to make it as far as AT&T Park (am I the only one who still thinks of it as Pac-Bell Park?) before I had to hurry back to the game. I did, however, get this cliched shot of the Transamerica Pyramid at the beginning of this short trip:

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Old Posted Jun 29, 2011, 5:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordo View Post
Look forward to hearing about the trip.

The Holiday Inn that you mentioned is on my list of buildings to be destroyed should I ever have a free set of explosives and a way to detonate them without hurting anyone. Terribly ugly building that creates all sorts of nasty wind tunnels in the area.

Actually, now that I think about it, the Hilton that you stayed in is also one of my least favorite buildings in the city, just because of its relationship (or lack thereof) with the streets around it. The Hilton does have decent rooms though (definitely better than the Holiday Inn) - I stayed there for a couple weeks many moons ago.
Yeah, the Holiday Inn is one ugly building. I don't mind the Hilton, as it's a rather ambitious Brutalist design. And given the neighborhood (the Financial District), I think you can say the same about many of the buildings east of Kearney in regards to their relationship to the streets.
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Old Posted Jun 29, 2011, 5:17 PM
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^Very true about many other buildings in the FiDi. The entire Embarcadero Center/Golden Gateway former redevelopment area cluster!@#$ is pretty bad, and that's 10-12 full blocks. I'm probably just bitter from being shit on by a pigeon while standing under that pedestrian bridge in front of the Hilton years ago.

To answer your question from above, yes, lots of people still call the baseball park by its proper name (Pac Bell Park), including me. There's always some jackass in the crowd that will correct you whenever you mention it though.

Cool stories from Chinatown. For congee, my favorite places are actually out in the Richmond and Sunset districts (kind of modern day Chinatowns, to some extent) and over in Oakland. There's a ridiculously good hole-in-the-wall place on Inner Clement (around 8th and Clement, I believe) that doesn't even have a sign or name, but it's soooo tasty.
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Old Posted Jun 30, 2011, 4:59 AM
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^Very true about many other buildings in the FiDi. The entire Embarcadero Center/Golden Gateway former redevelopment area cluster!@#$ is pretty bad, and that's 10-12 full blocks. I'm probably just bitter from being shit on by a pigeon while standing under that pedestrian bridge in front of the Hilton years ago.

To answer your question from above, yes, lots of people still call the baseball park by its proper name (Pac Bell Park), including me. There's always some jackass in the crowd that will correct you whenever you mention it though.

Cool stories from Chinatown. For congee, my favorite places are actually out in the Richmond and Sunset districts (kind of modern day Chinatowns, to some extent) and over in Oakland. There's a ridiculously good hole-in-the-wall place on Inner Clement (around 8th and Clement, I believe) that doesn't even have a sign or name, but it's soooo tasty.
I didn't really see the Embarcadero Center, as we pretty much stuck along the waterfront. But I hated the Mission Bay development after I took a glance at it passing by Pac Bell Park. Giant superblocks full of rather generic-looking developments. It looks like something that was developed by committee, which it sort of was. Because of the victories by Sue Hestor and other limited-growth advocates, the Mission Bay development underwent a lot of scrutiny from community representatives in regards to what was to be built and whether jobs would be given to SF residents. But given that this was originally a railway yard, I guess it didn't turn out too bad. I just think they could have done better.

And one more note from the Sunday recap.

After witnessing the Mavericks win it all over the Heat, we needed to find someplace to eat. Naturally, we wanted to go to Chinatown for food. By now, it was a bit after 8 PM. Little did we know that unlike Flushing or Chinatown in Manhattan, almost everything outside the touristy shops on Grant Street have already closed by about 7 PM. Weird city. After a bunch of walking around and ignoring the restaurants that seemed to cater to tourists, we finally found a place that didn’t look terribly appealing from the outside. The outside menu featured a bunch of pictures of the type of food that you would find at a takeout place, and the restaurant was located in a basement. But nevertheless, my father said that this place looked like it had good, authentic Cantonese cooking. I’m no expert, so I follow his lead down to the restaurant.

It turns out that this was probably the best restaurant we’ve been to on our trip – so good, that we went back two more times. It’s not so much that its food has mindblowing flavors or anything, but that it features good home cooking that’s clean-tasting and not too greasy. In other words, it’s perfect after a long day of walking, when the tired body demands non-greasy eats. Each time I went, I was able to fish a vast quantity of food, a quantity far more that I had expected going in.

My father explains to me that many of the dishes in this restaurant – and in SF’s Chinatown in general – cannot be found in NYC’s various Cantonese restaurants (which he claims is more Hong Kong-nese style than Cantonese). In fact, he claims that the Cantonese food in SF’s Chinatown should be considered more authentic than even the food found in the Guangdong region in China. His theory on this is that due to the amount of revolutionary upheaval over the last 50 years in China, the culinary heritage of the Cantonese style has been changed enough that it is no longer the same. SF’s Chinatown, on the other hand, has remained stable over the last 100 years, and the Cantonese-style cooking has remained essentially in a time capsule of sorts.

In any case, I liked the homestyle cooking. One dish in particular – steamed whole fish with turnips – doesn’t sound all that enticing. But it was a taste I never had before, and the dish actually worked: the turnips and the fish (and whatever other flavors there were) complemented each other very well. Again, it doesn’t have mindblowingly intense and complex flavors. It’s just a nice, simple, and clean-tasting dish that you can just wolf down with no trouble.

And one final note. Most of these ‘authentic’ Cantonese dishes cannot be found in the English menu. They’re all written in Chinese along the walls (subnote – the Chinese writing in SF restaurants are almost calligraphy-quality, as opposed to the scrawls you seen in NYC restaurants). So take a grain of salt when you read the reviews on Yelp (this restaurant – Chef Hung’s – only has a 3 star rating) because most of the reviewers are likely to only order stuff like General Tso’s Chicken, Egg Foo Young, Spring Rolls, or whatever else they’re familiar with from Chinese takeout places.
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Old Posted Jul 12, 2011, 5:24 PM
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I hope that you guys realize there's a lot more to San Francisco's amazing dining scene than Chinese restaurants in Chinatown?...
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Old Posted Jul 26, 2011, 6:52 AM
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^ hah. yeah, but there are some reasonably decent cantonese places there. i live up nob hill, so unfortunately, i tend not to get out to the sunset or the richmond all that much, but even for cantonese and certainly for shanhainese, taiwanese and even northern, the tastier places are out in those areas. though i'm still looking for a good sichuan place (the only real hardcore ones i know are in the east bay, in like union city, which means that i'll only be out there for like a funeral or something, ugh).
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