HALIFAX, Canada's grand old city on the east coast

[isaidso]

Literally across the street is the University of King's College. The University of King's College claims to be Canada's oldest chartered university. It was founded with a strong religious affiliation and was generally modeled on older English universities which were residential, tutorial and Anglican. The University of New Brunswick was founded 4 years before King's, but did not receive its Royal Charter until 1827. Whatever! UNB is older. "The King's Quad". I'm not sure why it's called that.



King's is considered a very snooty school. It has the reputation as an institution where the rich send their kids who don't really require a paying job upon graduation. I don't know how much truth there is to this, but it's certainly a school of pedigree, gorgeous student dormitories and dining halls, and of course, steeped in tradition.

King's best known program is the Foundation Year Programme (FYP) for first year students, an intensive survey course on the history of western philosophy.



The University of King's College was founded by a group of United Empire Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution. King's was originally built in Windsor, Nova Scotia, but moved to its present location after it burned to the ground. King's student dormitories on the right and I believe a gymnasium on the left.



After the fire, the Carnegie Foundation offered King's money to rebuild, on the condition that they surrender their independence and enter into an affiliation with Dalhousie University. This is how King's ended up situated where it is. King's is now affiliated with Dalhousie, but fights complete amalgamation vigorously. Here's the King's flag.



When World War II broke out, King's was requisitioned by the military for the training of naval officers. King's functioned as a "stone frigate", providing a facility for navigation training before officers were sent to their ships. Another shot of the main building.



King's is a liberal arts university. Enrollment is 1100. Their motto is Deo Legi Regi Gregi, or For God, Law, King, People.



This is the King's Library. It's a relatively new structure, but they made an attempt to compliment the rest of the campus.



I go in for a closer look. Is this going to be a classic King's College moment? The answer is a resounding yes. He plays a hauntingly sad French song on the accordion while she dances gracefully by. Um.....



I say good bye to the University of King's College and head downtown.

[someone123]

Many of Nova Scotia's universities used to be sectarian -- if you were Catholic you'd go to St. Mary's, Anglicans would go to King's, etc. Dalhousie started as a public, non-sectarian university in 1818, which was probably pretty unusual and progressive at the time.

Apparently for a period of time, Dal, King's, St. Mary's, Mount Saint Vincent (women only, and one of the few institutions for women in Canada in the 1800's), and Mount Allison were structured as colleges of one "University of Halifax". The University of London and University of Toronto still have this structure, but it was eventually abolished in the Maritimes. The Carnegie grants came along a little later as an attempt to consolidate the post-secondary institutions scattered around the region (it's fine to have a small liberal arts college, but it's doubtful that it makes sense to maintain a bunch of smaller, research-intensive schools). The foundation offered to pay for King's and Mount Allison to relocate to Halifax and become colleges affiliated with Dalhousie. King's did this but Mount A did not.

The agricultural college in Truro is also now officially a part of Dalhousie as well.

[isaidso]

I wonder if Kings would still be independent of Dalhousie if it had stayed in Windsor. Dalhousie does seem to have been a very progressive school for its time registering a number of Canadian firsts. I didn't know about the agricultural school in Truro being part of Dal.

[isaidso]

I start my walk towards downtown Halifax. The adjacent residential streets to King's and Dalhousie are typical of peninsula Halifax.



This is a middle income area of Halifax. Most houses are of similar architecture to these.



Nova Scotians love their porches. A few weeks later and this one would be filled with pumpkins.



Nova Scotians tend to paint their houses bright colours. The tradition traces its roots to the many fishing outposts than line the coast. Fishermen would use left over boat paint on the exterior of their houses. These were typically red, blue, yellow, or some other bright colour. Over time, people in towns and cities began to paint their houses in bright colours as well. This isn't the best example of this practice, but I don't seem to have a better one.



I walk a few blocks east down Spring Garden Road till I come to a gate to the much loved Halifax Public Gardens. The Halifax Public Gardens are Victorian era public gardens formally established in 1867, the year that Canada became an independent nation. The gardens are a national historic site.



I decide to walk along the side of this park a little further before entering. Halifax has an extremely young population. It's due to the massive university population and extensive military presence. The downtown is inundated with students and at many times, swamped with sailors, soldiers, and other military personnel.

In the summer, there are days when Spring Garden is a sea of sailors from various navies from around the world; Dutch, Australian, American, Chilean, Italian, French, British, you name it.



This is Sacred Hearts School for Girls. It is a private school and currently under going a significant expansion. I believe the work is now complete?

[haligonia]

Giving this a bump because I desperately want to see the rest!

[Hali87]

What ever happened to the rest of this thread? I could swear there was at least 1 more page of pics?

[isaidso]

Shoot, I forgot all about it. Sorry folks!

Half way down, I reach a side gate to the Public Gardens. They are open annually from approximately May 1 until November 1. The landscaping style is Victorian formal and provides a popular setting for wedding and prom photos. The gardens also feature a bandstand that is used for free public concerts on Sunday afternoons during the summer.

The trees and flowers are well tended and many people enjoy feeding the ducks who make the gardens their home. The Public Gardens were badly damaged by Hurricane Juan in 2003. Many trees were destroyed, necessitating the early closure of the gardens and some redesign. The gardens reopened on Canada Day, 2004 after a restoration aided in part by $1 million which was raised during a radio telethon.

It's too tempting, so I enter.


A walk around and take a look back at the building. It's been turned into a really charming colonial coffee house.


I decide to take a seat on the bench and admire the Victorian bandstand that I mentioned earlier. This is a famous Halifax landmark. The Halifax Public Gardens is one of the finest examples of a Victorian garden in America. Halifax does downtown green areas very well. What passes for a park in Halifax is of a very high standard.


A view to my left and towards Dalhousie University a few blocks away.


I walk towards the main pond. If anyone is familiar with that Canadian television satire, This Hour Has 22 Minutes, this place might look familiar.


Another look back. I was hoping to document this on a crisp sunny day, but that doesn't look in the realm of possibility today.


This is the main pond. I'm not sure its official name. The ship is a nod to that famous ship, the Titanic. The majority of those that perished on that ill fated voyage are buried in Halifax cemeteries. Jack Dawson, made famous by Leonardo DiCaprio in the Hollywood film, Titanic, is also buried in Halifax.


I wait till a duck gets into perfect position for a photo with the ship. Hurry up, it's beginning to rain!


I leave the pond, and continue through the park.




A cute little bridge, apparently. There's a beautiful little duck pond beneath it.


I walk across the bridge, and the downtown core comes into plain sight. This is one of Halifax's grand old hotels. It's called the Lord Nelson.


I walk towards the main gate at the corner of Spring Garden Road and South Park Street. You may remember that I started my tour of the downtown at South Park, but that was a few blocks south of here. I've almost done a complete loop. This photo is looking back inside the park from where I just came.


I walk down Spring Garden Road and come across a tourist shop that specializes in all things Nova Scotian. How more Nova Scotian can you get than this. A sweat shirt depicting the famous Bluenose schooner which appears on our money, a yellow rain coat with a boat on it, a beer barrel, fish net, and Nova Scotia's official tartan.

I'm not a big fan of plaid, but I love Nova Scotia's tartan. Burberry? Pffft!! I venture inside in search of a fleece scarf in Nova Scotia tartan, but unfortunately, they were all sold out.


On a side street, I stumble on Pete's Frootique. Pete Luckett is a traditional English fruit and vegetable stand proprietor as authentic as any you might find in the markets of London. He started selling fruits in nearby Bedford, Nova Scotia. His charm and exuberant enthusiasm for quality fruits and vegetables made him a huge success and a very rich man. He is a local institution and as close to a celebrity grocer as you can get. He's even appeared on national breakfast television shows discussing the trendy new variety of the day. "Too-de-ly-doo!", as he always says.


This is Pete's Frootique. I promised you giant pumpkins, so here you go. Nova Scotians have a passion and talent for growing monstrous pumpkins. People buy and sell seed from prized pumpkins in the hope of challenging for a world title. Nova Scotia pumpkins have many times taken top spot. These are very very modest in size compared to the really giant ones this province often produces.

Halifax is my favourite place to be in late October. Colonial architecture, crisp air, and a stunning display of reds and oranges. Not only is foliage some of the most spectacular on the continent due to the latitude and cold fall temperatures at night, but they celebrate those 2 quintessentially Canadian holidays, Thanksgiving and Halloween, with great vigour. Nova Scotians are unparalleled in the quantity, size, and variety of pumpkins they display on their porches and window sills. Halloween in downtown Halifax is a visual treat.


Is this another hurricane? No, but this looks like it will be fierce, nonetheless.


I'll stay here in the coffee shop. I decide to buckle down for a long stay.


Stay tuned as I take a few shots of downtown Halifax as I wait for my drive to Tatamagouche and the North Shore.

[someone123]

A lot of the things in these photos have changed now. The bandstand for example has been restored and it has a copper roof now instead of a red painted roof. The fountain at the western end of the gardens has been restored too and looks great; I think the gardens are really starting to live up to their potential now.

Spring Garden Road is changing a lot too. I'd say the Pete's was the first of the big improvements of the last decade or so. I'll be interesting to see how the street ends up once the new buildings being built are completed.

[SignalHillHiker]

GREAT update, isaidso.

[isaidso]

Thanks. I will add the next installment tomorrow.

Originally Posted by someone123

A lot of the things in these photos have changed now. The bandstand for example has been restored and it has a copper roof now instead of a red painted roof. The fountain at the western end of the gardens has been restored too and looks great; I think the gardens are really starting to live up to their potential now.

Spring Garden Road is changing a lot too. I'd say the Pete's was the first of the big improvements of the last decade or so. I'll be interesting to see how the street ends up once the new buildings being built are completed.

Yes it's likely slightly different today. There are more changes happening right now than I saw in the 20 years I lived there. Given how stagnant things were, it's quite surprising to see all the activity. I'm absolutely thrilled for Halifax.

[isaidso]

A few days later, I head back downtown to meet a friend. I need to kill a few hours so here's a glimpse of the Halifax Town Clock at the foot of the Halifax Citadel.



Here's one of the 2 entrances to the Halifax Citadel. The Halifax Citadel is a British fortification built the late 1740s to counter a growing French presence at Fortress Louisbourg several hundred kilometres east. Citadel Hill and the associated harbour defence fortifications afforded the Royal Navy the most secure and strategic anchorage in eastern North America astride the Great Circle Route to western Europe and gave Halifax the nickname "Warden of The North".



The current star-shaped fortress, or citadel, is formally known as Fort George and was completed in 1856, following twenty-eight years of construction. This massive masonry-construction fort was designed to repel a land-based attack by United States forces. The British military presence through the Citadel Hill and the Royal Navy's dockyard is thought to be the main reason that Nova Scotia (consisting of all of the present-day Maritimes and part of Quebec's Gaspe Peninsula), 'the 14th colony', remained loyal to the Crown throughout and after the American Revolutionary War. This is a must see, but have no photo for you, so I will borrow a few below:


Courtesy of Parks Canada

Ceremonial cannon fire occurs at noon every day.


http://rtoddking.com/images/canada2007/07072721.jpg

OK, one more. I couldn't resist.


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1304/...ea60a3.jpg?v=0

Next to the Citadel is more evidence of the massive military presence in this province. Halifax was considered impregnable and was never taken. This cannon is much newer and probably from WW2. Halifax was a vital life line for Britain during both WW1 and WW2. It is through Halifax, that the bulk of Canada's war effort was funneled. Halifax was integral in keeping the north Atlantic open for safe passage of food, munitions, and troops to fuel Allied forces.



Walking towards Spring Garden Road, Halifax's main downtown shopping street. I reach the Halifax Main Library.



I reach the Halifax Public Library. Aliant headquarters are straight ahead. They are the dominant phone company in the Maritimes, and the modern reincarnation of the old Maritime Telephone and Telegraph Company.



Here's a closer look at the Halifax Main Library. The library is considered too small for the needs of the city and is building a larger library across the street. This sidewalk is said to be the busiest pedestrian thoroughfare in the city.



I mistakenly thought this was a statue of Joseph Howe, but it's obviously Winston Churchill. We all know who Churchill was, so here's a few words about Howe. Howe was a puritan from Massachusetts who joined the flood of United Empire Loyalists who fled north to American colonies loyal to the crown.

He is noted for helping Nova Scotia become, in 1848, the first colony in the British Empire to win Responsible Government. Joseph Howe became the 5th Premier of Nova Scotia from 1860 to 1863. He fought Canadian Confederation, but having failed to prevent it, Howe joined the federal cabinet of John A. MacDonald, and played a major role in bringing Manitoba into the union.



Across the street is Dalhousie University's Sexton campus. It used to be the Technical University of Nova Scotia, but was amalgamated with Dalhousie in the 1990s.

[isaidso]

Here's the entrance to the Sexton campus. This is home to Architecture and Engineering.


Clues to the school's past are written above the building's entrance.


It's a very tiny campus, but centrally located and intimate.


I decide not to go in, but walk down the tale end of Spring Garden instead.


Next to the campus are some government buildings.


This is one of the many handsome buildings in the city.


It deserves a closer look. I believe this is where you go to fight parking tickets.


Across the street is this Anglican Church. My friends would get married here within the week. The modern office building isn't too bad, but you're left shaking your head when you learn what once stood here. I've been told that the site was home to one of the grandest Victorian era theatres in Canada. Royalty and many famous people from the political and entertainment world once attended events there. I have no pictures, but it was torn down to build the phone company offices.


Opposite the church is this hauntingly old cemetery. Some of the 'newer' additions to this cemetery are victims of the Titanic ocean liner that sunk after hitting an ice berg off Newfoundland. A huge number of survivors made first land here in Halifax. So, did many of the dead.

Jack Dawson from the Hollywood film Titanic is buried in Fairview Cemetery over looking the Bedford Basin. He is not buried in this one.

[someone123]

The cemetery pictured above was used from 1749-1844. A lot of the graves are very strange; they indicate the cause of death (as understood by 18th century medicine), for example, and some of them have tables with 4 or 5 children listed along with their ages (stillborns left blank).

One of the surprising facts about that place is that about 12,000 people are buried there. The markers only account for a small percentage. The Welsford-Parker Crimean War monument is another great feature, built in 1860. It's the only Crimean War monument in North America.