Pressed from Paris, I'm pressed for time. Trying to get the Euro tour completed in the next month. Moving on to set nine-nine-nine, Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina. From Paris I flew to Sarajevo of which I had no idea what to expect. I remembered the war in the Balkans more than a decade ago, but other than that I knew nothing about the small capital city. I found an interesting mix of history: Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Eastern Orthodox, Soviet and Slavic interests have played a part in sculpting the town. The city hosts the bridge where Arch Duke Franz Ferdinad was assassinated by Princip, the triggering event that spiraled Europe into WWI. Certain areas could have been plucked directly from Istanbul while others looked like Soviet era bunkers. A city with split personalities.
Remnants of the Balkan war were still clearly visible. On the drive from the airport to the city center, I saw 'Sniper Alley' where much of the fighting took place. Even though I was in a cab, I stupidly didn't pull out my camera to shoot from the window. Burned out, bullet ridden shells of buildings overgrown with trees and graffiti lined the main road. The area wasn't really walkable and I didn't have enough time to return. I still regret not getting those shots.
Cemeteries were everywhere, and unlike normal cemeteries that house the dead from all eras, most of the ones I walked through had tombstones from the years of 96, 97 and 98. Pretty emotional seeing the casualties of a war, many young men lost. I visited the old Olympic venue which hosted the '84 games. Sadly, much of the complex has been abandoned and some of the open space used as additional cemetery space. The indirect toll from the war has been heavy. While I was technically in Europe, the place felt unique. Unlike any city I have visited.
** I just came across a feature in the Atlantic's In Focus Magazine covering the 20 year anniversary of the war.
http://www.theatlantic.com/infocus/2...an-war/100278/ If you have time, check it out before you view the thread. Warning, some images are graphic, though you have to click on objectionable ones to see them.
I was hoping to start this clip at 28 seconds but the BBC code won't let me. Just let it load and skip to 0:28. Or if you feel like hearing like some Italian anouncer speak for 30 secs, let it ride. I believe the song is not specifically Bosnian but the composer of this version is.
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This is not gum. The city marked places where people were killed by sniper or mortar attacks with red epoxy. I don't know why I knew this before I showed up but sure enough, walking down a street I spotted some.
Next on to big, bad Beograd.
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