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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 8:59 AM
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General Photography Chat

I've always had questions about a certain topic in photography. But, with all these threads being about a specific subject/topic, I've never been able to ask my questions, have them answered completely or answered at all! So I decided to create a General Photography Chat thread so that people can discuss photography.

What to discuss? Just about anything...

-Tips
-Tricks
-Programs
-Favorite Photographers
-Style
-Questions
-Camera's
-Equipment
-Photo uploading sites

and anything else having to do with photography!
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Last edited by Aleks; Apr 2, 2009 at 9:11 AM.
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 9:09 AM
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Okayy, so I'm not an expert in Photography but I do like it a lot. I've wondered about photography editing softwares lately. Specially about Aperture and Photoshop.

What are the differences?
Which one is "better"?
Is CS better than Aperture?
Is Aperture better than Elements?
Which one is "better" in price?

I currently use Photoshop Elements 6 which is pretty basic. I like it for most of the time. I really wish I could create a Tilt Shift on Elements though. I've seen tutorials on how to create it on CS but not Elements. But anyways, can anyone give me a basic comparison on CS vs. Aperture or Elements vs. Aperture?
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Old Posted Apr 3, 2009, 2:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Aleks0o01 View Post
Okayy, so I'm not an expert in Photography but I do like it a lot. I've wondered about photography editing softwares lately. Specially about Aperture and Photoshop.

What are the differences?
Which one is "better"?
Is CS better than Aperture?
Is Aperture better than Elements?
Which one is "better" in price?

I currently use Photoshop Elements 6 which is pretty basic. I like it for most of the time. I really wish I could create a Tilt Shift on Elements though. I've seen tutorials on how to create it on CS but not Elements. But anyways, can anyone give me a basic comparison on CS vs. Aperture or Elements vs. Aperture?

software depends on your needs really, I use several different ones when i process.

Adobe photoshop, best results hands down. for anything. but requires time and patience, and a lot of practice.

corel paint shop pro, easy to use, lots of effects at the click of a button, doesn't yield the best results though.

photoshop lightroom. If you don't do much more than crop, and fine tune adjustments this is awesome. You can also add presets that allow some crazy edits with ease and still produces some good results. Its geared to photographers that need to do a lot of editing faster. I still fine tune with photoshop though.

Photoshop elements 7. Not bad for the price, doesn't do as much as photoshop for for the price not too bad at all.
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 9:40 AM
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^I can't help with the comparison, but I've done psuedo tilt-shift in Gimp which is free. There's nothing automated for it, but it's not an overly complex process either and unless you're doing large numbers of images it's not that bad.

I'm sure you could do it in Elements, but I find Elements overly clunky memory-wise. I tend to use Picassa for quick editing because it does the basic functions I need in lightning time and a memory footprint that's actually useable on my antiquated machine.

From what I can see Aperture 2 is twice the cost of Elements 7. About par for the course for Apple products. I love Apple, but the price is unweildy sometimes.
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 9:48 AM
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Here's a sample for Tilt-Shift using Gimp.




I could have pushed the blur more and faster out towards the edges, but it was a first attempt.
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Old Posted Dec 30, 2011, 1:47 AM
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Originally Posted by HomeInMyShoes View Post
Here's a sample for Tilt-Shift using Gimp.




I could have pushed the blur more and faster out towards the edges, but it was a first attempt.
Hi, these pics are great! I would like to know how to use my cam as well as you do!
Happy New Year!
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 2:11 PM
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There's an easy website for Tilt shift - I've tried it and it works pretty good.









http://tiltshiftmaker.com/
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Old Posted Jan 7, 2013, 5:17 PM
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Hey everyone, I am new to the world of dslr photography and in the market for a tripod. After spending approximately $700 in the past few weeks on the camera and other accessories, I would like to keep my budget under $100 for a tripod. I do understand that you get what you pay for and that there is no such thing as a cheap, lightweight and strong tripod, but can someone please recommend a good tripod for under $100.

I don't record many movies so I am basically just looking for it for stabilization of landscape and low light shots. After doing some research, I've found the Sony VCT-R640 on amazon for $49 and was thinking this might be a good choice based on reviews.

I am using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55mm lens for now.

Thanks.

Last edited by J_Murphy; Jan 7, 2013 at 5:56 PM.
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Old Posted Jan 7, 2013, 5:47 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Murphy View Post
Hey everyone, I am new to the world of dslr photography and in the market for a tripod. After spending approximately $700 in the past few weeks on the camera and other accessories, I would like to keep my budget under $100 for a tripod. I do understand that you get what you pay for and that there is no such thing as a cheap, lightweight and quality tripod, but can someone please recommend a good tripod for under $100.

I don't record many movies so I am basically just looking for it for stabilization of landscape and low light shots. After doing some research, I've found the Sony VCT-R640 on amazon for $49 and was thinking this might be a good choice based on reviews.

I am using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55mm lens for now.

Thanks.
I would say for the most part, that should suffice.

From my use, I don't find a lot of benefit in plunking down a lot of money on a tripod unless you position the camera in unusual ways, say like how someformofhuman has in this thread: http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=190268.

As long as the tripod is capable of handling the weight you give it and it is stable, you should be fine.

That said, I do have a $150 and a $100 (travel) Manfrotto tripods. Not top of the line, but the $150 is more than I need for sure.
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Old Posted Jan 9, 2013, 1:06 PM
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I would say for the most part, that should suffice.

From my use, I don't find a lot of benefit in plunking down a lot of money on a tripod unless you position the camera in unusual ways, say like how someformofhuman has in this thread: http://forum.skyscraperpage.com/showthread.php?t=190268.

As long as the tripod is capable of handling the weight you give it and it is stable, you should be fine.

That said, I do have a $150 and a $100 (travel) Manfrotto tripods. Not top of the line, but the $150 is more than I need for sure.
Thanks.
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Old Posted Jan 9, 2013, 6:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Murphy View Post
Hey everyone, I am new to the world of dslr photography and in the market for a tripod. After spending approximately $700 in the past few weeks on the camera and other accessories, I would like to keep my budget under $100 for a tripod. I do understand that you get what you pay for and that there is no such thing as a cheap, lightweight and strong tripod, but can someone please recommend a good tripod for under $100.

I don't record many movies so I am basically just looking for it for stabilization of landscape and low light shots. After doing some research, I've found the Sony VCT-R640 on amazon for $49 and was thinking this might be a good choice based on reviews.

I am using a Nikon D3100 with the 18-55mm lens for now.

Thanks.
Dude just go to bestbuy and get a sunpak. Buy the heaviest one they have. The heavier the more stable they are. You can get better rotating heads on the manfrotto options but you pay for that.
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  #12  
Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 2:15 PM
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I'd like to know more on how to do HDR photography. All the way from camera settings to what software to use.
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  #13  
Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 3:29 PM
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I'd like to know more on how to do HDR photography. All the way from camera settings to what software to use.
It's pretty straightforward. First, place your camera on a tripod or similarly stable surface. Hand-held HDR is do-able, but you need very steady hands. Some of my attempts have succeeded, but most have not. Second, shoot in RAW mode, not jpeg.

Depending on the dynamic range of the scene--the range between the darkest shadows and brightest highlights--you generally want to take three to five exposures. In my experience, three is usually sufficient. While in manual mode, I first dial in my desired aperture. Once that's locked in, I'll look at my meter and adjust the shutter speed until the needle is centered. I take the shot. Then, I take a shot at -1 EC and another at +1 EC. Since my camera has an auto-exposure bracketing (AEB) feature, this can be done with relative ease. AEB allows you to take three pre-set bracketed exposures (e.g., -1, 0, +1) in rapid succession. Without it, you have to take each different exposure individually.

The final step is to process the files in a software program. I use Photomatix Pro 3. You open it up and load the RAW files that will comprise the HDR. Once Photomatix is done blending the RAW files, it will display the HDR image. Next, it's on to tonemapping. Click the tonemapping button, and you'll see the same image, except that various adjustments have been applied to it. From there, it's a matter of tinkering with various settings (strength, saturation, etc.) to obtain your preferred result. HDRs range from looking unreal, hypersaturated, and cartoonish to so subtle the viewer may not even be aware that the photo is HDR.


Steps:
1) Tripod
2) RAW mode
3) Take multiple exposures
4) Process
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  #14  
Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Then, I take a shot at -1 EC and another at +1 EC. Since my camera has an auto-exposure bracketing (AEB) feature, this can be done with relative ease. AEB allows you to take three pre-set bracketed exposures (e.g., -1, 0, +1) in rapid succession. Without it, you have to take each different exposure individually.
I have a Nikon D40X. Does it also have AEB? I've looked for it but I don't think it has it. I was planning on upgrading to the D90. Does the D90 have it?


Well I think this thread will come in handy!

Anyways, here are some tips on night photography. During the day I just shoot on Auto. At night I set my camera on Aperture and turn the dial until I get f/10-f/16. I use a tri-pod of course. And I shoot on RAW because I can edit my pictures easier without having too much noise. My ISO is set to 200-800 depending on the amount of light. If it's too dark I'll set it to 200. If it's too light I'll set it to 800. If the ISO is too high you'll get noise on your pictures which will looks bad.

Here's an example of a night shot.



ISO: 400
Shutter: 7.1
Aperture: f/14
Other things are on auto.

This next one was taken when it was lighter out.



ISO: 200
Shutter: 30
Aperture: f/14
Everything else on auto.

This was taken with a D40X which isn't too different from the one you have.
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 2:19 PM
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Me too. I've never tried HDR..
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 6:14 PM
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thanks for starting this thread alex,as i have an interest in photography too ,probaly will learn alot on this thread....
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 6:50 PM
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thanks i_am_hydrogen.. I'll try out your steps.

is photomatix available free on the web, or do you have to pay?
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 7:00 PM
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I have some questions. I'm new to SLRs and I got the D40. I've read a bit about some of these things, but I just don't get it.

1) Aperture: how is it supposed to help the image?

2) Shutter: shutter speed and everything doesn't make sense! When I turn the dial too much it goes pitch black, am I going too high for 1/___ sec? I think so but I don't know how to get it just right. Like a waterfall - how to make the water blur or froze.

3) Get rid of washed out skies. I think that's the right term, the skies in some of my photos just look like crap.

4) Tips on night photography.

I mostly do urban scenes for photography. I am just new to SLRs but I really like them and I really really enjoy photography so it bugs me when this stuff comes up.(Shutter, etc.)

Thanks.
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Old Posted Apr 3, 2009, 12:27 AM
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thanks i_am_hydrogen.. I'll try out your steps.

is photomatix available free on the web, or do you have to pay?
There is, but the free version leaves a watermark.


Quote:
Originally Posted by edmontonenthusiast View Post
I have some questions. I'm new to SLRs and I got the D40. I've read a bit about some of these things, but I just don't get it.

1) Aperture: how is it supposed to help the image?

2) Shutter: shutter speed and everything doesn't make sense! When I turn the dial too much it goes pitch black, am I going too high for 1/___ sec? I think so but I don't know how to get it just right. Like a waterfall - how to make the water blur or froze.
The Three Elements of Exposure

I. Aperture

Aperture performs two main functions. First, by expanding and contracting, it regulates the amount of light that is let onto the camera's sensor. Think of aperture like the pupil in your eye. Paradoxically, the smaller the F/number, the larger the aperture hole will be. For example, F3 will let in much more light than F12. In photography parlance, smaller F/numbers are called "narrow" apertures because the hole is narrowly open, while larger F/numbers are called "wide" apertures because the hold is wide open.

Second, as Home mentioned, aperture affects the "depth of the field" of a photo. Narrower apertures (e.g., larger F/numbers) create what is known as a "greater depth of field," meaning that the photo is acceptably sharp (or nearly so) from foreground to background, right edge to left edge. Wider apertures (e.g., smaller F/numbers) create a "shallow depth of field." The classic example of a shallow DOF is a portrait in which the person's face is in perfect focus and the background is blurred. The blurred area is known as "bokeh," a term used to describe the rendition of out-of-focus points of light. Three ways to achieve a shallow DOF are: (1) aperture, (2) focal distance, and (3) distance between subject and background. In other words, use a wide aperture, get as close as possible to the subject you want to keep in focus, and try to put some distance between the subject and the area you want to be blurry.


II. Shutter Speed

As aperture controls the amount of light that is let onto the sensor, the shutter speed controls the length of time that light is allowed in. A "slow" shutter speed lets in more light than a "fast" one. Slower shutter speeds can be used in artistic ways to give a sense of motion to a photo by, for example, blurring car lights, smoothing out clouds, blurring airplane propellers, and adding a cottony appearance to cascading water. Faster shutter speeds are useful to freeze sports action.

An important rule-of-thumb is to avoid--when shooting hand-held--permitting the shutter speed to be slower than 1/focal length with which you are shooting. Thus, if your focal length is 100mm, do not use a shutter speed slower than 1/100th of a second. But there is a wrinkle. Most non-full-frame cameras have "crop factors," meaning that the sensor is cropped such that it is smaller than the sensor of a full-frame camera. Without getting into too much technical detail, it is important to know your camera's crop factor in order to calculate your actual focal length. For example, a Canon 40D has a crop factor of 1.6x. This means that 100mm is actually 160mm. Consequently, you would not want your shutter speed to dip below 1/160th of a second.


III. ISO

ISO controls how sensitive the camera's sensor is to the light that is being let in through the aperture hole. It can add an "umph" factor to that light and make an image brighter. Higher ISOs, however, increase the risk of imparting the image with grain or "noise."


IV. Conclusion

At some point, it becomes necessary to better understand the mathematical interrelatonships between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Some examples:

- f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32 are the standard full f-stops. Increasing the aperture by one stop lets in twice the amount of light. Decreasing it by one stop lets in half the light.
- Halving a shutter speed from, say, 1/500 to 1/1000 lets in half as much light. Increasing it from 1/500 to 1/250 lets in twice the light.
- A wider aperture allows for a faster shutter speed.
- A narrower aperture forces a slower shutter speed.
- Doubling the ISO doubles the amount of light, which allows you to increase the aperture by one stop or halve the shutter speed. For example, assume the following: ISO 200, f/4, 1/1000. If you double the ISO to 400, you can widen the aperture to f/2.8 or halve the shutter speed to 1/2000.
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Old Posted Apr 2, 2009, 7:47 PM
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First, make sure you get a tripod. That'll help with night shots and getting those waterfall shots you want. I'd reccomend a basic photo class. It'll help you really understand what all the different settings are for.

To start out trying shooting in aperture mode. That affects the depth of field. The higher the f# the smaller the hole and the more depth of field you have. Try to think about how you want the image to look and set the aperture accordingly.

Another good rule of thumb to remember is that you don't want you're shutter speed to be slower than your lens. If you're shooting by hand (no tripod) with a lens of Xmm, then your shutter speed so be no higher than 1/X.

If you're shooting with a 50mm lens then shoot at 1/50s, 1/60s 1/70s or lower... If you have the 300mm zoom on make sure your at least 1/300s. That's where the tripods come in.

One more thing. Check your ISO. The lower the ISO the better the shot. But for most things, especially if you're just posting to the web, you won't notice much of a difference. Drop down to 400 or 800. It'll be more forgiving for a beginner.
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