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  #161  
Old Posted Oct 22, 2009, 5:52 AM
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SomeFormOfHuman, you're one of the few that can take amazing shots with almost any camera. Any camera will do fine for you. Do you have wide angle or prime lenses?

So anyways, I want to get the 50mm 1.4D, the SB-600 and the Tokina 11-16. Obviously I won't be able to get everything at once. What do you guys recommend? Getting the 50mm, then the SB and finally the Tokina OR get the Tokina first, then the 50mm and finally the SB-600?
Thanks. I'm now temporarily using a Nikon D70 for the time being. Not a bad camera, but the kit len's optics (18-70mm f3.5-4.5) is a little sub-par.

Well I do not own a prime yet, but I'm wiling to get my hands on Canon's f1.4 50mm, for my closeup portraits next time. I own a Canon 10-22mm wide angle lens though - optics and detail capture is very good - now I wouldn't just say very good, but rather excellent.
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  #162  
Old Posted Oct 30, 2009, 9:41 PM
toyota74 toyota74 is offline
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Well lads I have being doing landscapes pics all summer
and since the weather is so shit I think its time to do some
urban pics as I want to do a a photo thread on Limerick city
in the A to Z section here.So as usual I want tips,info in
urban photography .eg street shots and should I be
going into shuttermode,all shots will be handheld ,just
views on every thing and what ye do etc.
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  #163  
Old Posted Oct 30, 2009, 9:49 PM
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What's shutter mode? Are you talking about the mode for exposure (manual, shutter priority...)? If that's the case, depends on your camera, I think I remember you saying, just can't remember right now.

I usually always shoot manual with autofocus though, for anything (save some close ups where I'll do manualfocus). I think I may switch to Aperture Priority cause all I need to do is spin the dial, and it's harder to press buttons with gloves on (can get cold in Edmonton) so yeah. Any mode will probably do, it's just which one works best for you, and that's something you need to figure out on your own.

One thing is try not to be shy of taking photos head on of the sidewalk with pedestrians and whatnot. It can be a little nervous and odd to do at first round, but try not to be shy cause you'll get some good shots.

Don't be afraid to lie on your back or tummy, crouch awkwardly to frame things properly.

Don't worry about what people think of you taking pictures of them or whatever, just focus on great pics.

Try to do interesting angles. Play around with the viewfinder and try different angles for buildings, etc.

Wide angle shots are really great if you're trying to capture a big subject, like say a whole urban park, or a row of buildings...

Try to look for interesting elements. If you see something that makes you think "hey, this looks quite cool" or "this is interesting", even if it seems trivial, like some bike racks or something, photograph it, photograph everything. Cause you never know what will look good in-computer.

Don't use flash! Things tend to look awkward I find when you use flash for street shots.

Don't just go for the business district or the well known areas, go to areas rarely photographed (or at least well...) and offbeat places!

And, good luck! Hope to see the thread soonish.
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  #164  
Old Posted Oct 31, 2009, 2:47 PM
toyota74 toyota74 is offline
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Thanks for the advice ed,oh and I do mean shutter priority.
I looking forward to doing Limerick city cos it has major grit
and a mish mash of architecture.

thanks bud.
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  #165  
Old Posted Oct 31, 2009, 9:31 PM
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another thing I need to know is image size
in the d70 ,ive been using large so i m guessing
if you post small pics on web pages I should be
using small or medium,which is best??
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  #166  
Old Posted Oct 31, 2009, 10:54 PM
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^ Even the 'small' size out of the camera is waaaaaay too big to post on the web. You'll be resizing them before posting no matter what.

If you intend to print them later...you may want to go with large size. If you want to be able to cram more shots on your memory card at once...then go small. You need to decide that balance for yourself.

Personally...I go by the credo that disk space is cheap...and any picture may be a once in a lifetime opporatunity...so you might as well get it at the best quality possible.
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  #167  
Old Posted Oct 31, 2009, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyota74 View Post
Well lads I have being doing landscapes pics all summer
and since the weather is so shit I think its time to do some
urban pics as I want to do a a photo thread on Limerick city
in the A to Z section here.So as usual I want tips,info in
urban photography .eg street shots and should I be
going into shuttermode,all shots will be handheld ,just
views on every thing and what ye do etc.
A lot of it's just personal preference, but I prefer to shoot in Aperture-preferred mode because that's what influences depth of field. Of course, compromises need to be made when the light is poor.

I shoot in Camera RAW all the time, because as bulliver stated, every photo is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. You never know when you might come up with one you want to print later, and RAW will preserve the maximum amount of info and give the greatest flexibility for resizing and adjustment.

My first venture into DSLR was a D70, and it's quite a decent camera. I liked the 18-70mm kit lens pretty well, too. My only gripe with it was barrel distortion at the wide (18mm) end.
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  #168  
Old Posted Oct 31, 2009, 11:21 PM
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ya,so small it is and I dont really think I
will be printing any pics for a while until I get more
pratice and till I clean the sensor and stuff.

pics for now are for the web,thanks mr.b
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  #169  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 2:23 AM
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I ordered an Ml-L3 today! I have a feeling this is gonna help me during night shots a lot!

And I decided that I'm gonna save up for a Tokina 11-16mm instead of the 50mm 1.4d and the SB-600.
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  #170  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 4:10 AM
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^ I've got one of those...It only really helps with self-portraits because the infrared sensor is on the front of the camera. To reduce shake in tripod shots I just use the 2 second shutter delay.
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  #171  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 4:27 AM
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Have you tried it with the bulb setting?
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  #172  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 4:37 AM
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^ Actually, no. Good point. I'm not saying it's not worth getting, just that it is unneeded for shots under 30s...
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  #173  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 11:45 AM
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I used to use the self timer for night shots, but I get better results with the remote. It's a little annoying to curly your hand around so it points at the front of the camera, but I found camera shake to be an issue even with the timer (I have a crappy tripod).
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  #174  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 4:38 PM
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Quote:
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^ Actually, no. Good point. I'm not saying it's not worth getting, just that it is unneeded for shots under 30s...
I have a D40 and have never had a problem using the remote from just behind the camera. More convenient than having to press the button then wait 2 seconds. Especially if you need quick reaction time. I'm finally going to upgrade to the D90 and I've been looking at the bulb setting. It seems you can open the shutter with the remote and keep it open for much, much longer than the 30 second setting. Maybe I can finally get some good lightning shots.
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  #175  
Old Posted Nov 2, 2009, 5:39 PM
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@Flar...do you use the remote with the 2 second delay? Maybe I'm just slow but I find it hard to get my hand out of frame before the shutter goes when I use the remote...

@initiald... I went from D40 to D90. One thing I have found is that the D90's sensor is way more sensitive than the D40's. A dusk shot that I would go with a 5s -10s on the D40 is more like 2.5s - 3s with the D90, and a full darkness shot that I would go 30s with the D40 is 5s - 10s with the D90.

I was a bit surprised when my first long exposure with the D90 turned out to be nothing but bright white light!
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  #176  
Old Posted Nov 3, 2009, 9:01 PM
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I don't like the waiting, so I use the remote without a delay. A lot of times I stand beside the camera, particularly if it's windy.
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  #177  
Old Posted Nov 4, 2009, 4:32 AM
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I don't use the remote, it isn't supplied with it. (Surprisingly) So I used the timer + Mirror lockup custom function mode to enable timer to be set to 2 secs after shutter's been released when I take my night scape or HDR shots. Mine's an EOS 400D though.
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  #178  
Old Posted Nov 4, 2009, 8:08 PM
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I find that with the remote you can position your hand below the camera looking up and activate the shutter without your hand being in the frame
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  #179  
Old Posted Nov 5, 2009, 2:35 PM
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Check out this baby and it's price tag

http://www.lozeau.com/product.aspx?n...8407&lang_id=E
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  #180  
Old Posted Nov 5, 2009, 3:10 PM
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