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  #381  
Old Posted Apr 24, 2014, 8:58 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Are there any other master-planned subdivisions in the Phoenix area similar to Verrado (i.e. walkable, have ammenities and a downtown area)?
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  #382  
Old Posted Apr 24, 2014, 9:07 PM
HX_Guy HX_Guy is offline
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Agritopia is similar, though more farm focused.
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  #383  
Old Posted May 3, 2014, 4:49 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Anyone interested in some free agave, cacti, and a grapefruit tree? I recently finished re-landscaping my back yard and have some things I saved that I don't think I'm going to use, see below. If so, call or text me at (602) 642-6704 and you're free to come and pick it up.





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  #384  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 3:31 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Tree suggestions

I just took out a bush last night and am looking for suggestions of what to plant there.

First off - my house has mostly green landscaping, i.e. grass, ficus trees, Chinese elm trees, lush bushes, etc.

I expected there to be a dripper where the bush was, and I was going to plant a Purple Leaf Plum to add some color. Upon taking the bush out, I realized there's not a dripper. As such, I'll be relegated to planting a desert plant and I'm looking for suggestions.

Here's what I want:
  • Obviously something that will be a low water user.
  • Something that will go well with the rest of my non-desert landscaping.
  • Something with color, ideally year around.
  • I would prefer a small tree (which is why I wanted a Purple Leaf Plum).

Here's an old pic of the house from Google Street View. I've actually planted another Chinese Elm to the right of the driveway since this picture was taken. The bush I took out is circled.

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  #385  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 4:58 PM
gymratmanaz gymratmanaz is offline
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How much water goes into the grass next to it? If there is enough for your Chinese Elm in the grass to the right, then there should be enough in the grass to the left, if you give enough water to it to get it established. Hand water for a while to get it going then let it get its water from the watered grass nearby.
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  #386  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 6:37 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Directly to the left is the neighbor's yard, which is watered every day. Otherwise it wouldn't get much water.

I'm OK with dragging the hose out a few times a month during the hot part of the year in order to get it established but I don't want to do that forever.

I've been looking around it I may end up going with an Australian Bottle Tree. I know they're drought resistant once established, and have a narrow contained form which may work for that relatively small area.
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  #387  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 7:18 PM
gymratmanaz gymratmanaz is offline
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Not those!!!!! I believe they have those blackish brown seed pods and they drop everywhere!!!!!!
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  #388  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 7:22 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gymratmanaz View Post
Not those!!!!! I believe they have those blackish brown seed pods and they drop everywhere!!!!!!
They do. I have two Australian Bottle Trees in my yard already. They're messy
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  #389  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 8:18 PM
gymratmanaz gymratmanaz is offline
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Can't you put a dripper in? Your other bushes obviously have one, so there is a water line buried under the gravel. They are so easy to add on. Takes about 2 minutes. Home Depot or Lowes garden guy should be able to show you or look at a youtube video on it.
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  #390  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 9:14 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gymratmanaz View Post
Can't you put a dripper in? Your other bushes obviously have one, so there is a water line buried under the gravel. They are so easy to add on. Takes about 2 minutes. Home Depot or Lowes garden guy should be able to show you or look at a youtube video on it.
I actually don't think the other bushes have working drippers either. I think there used to be drippers there but they no longer work. I think the bushes survive without working drippers due to being well established.
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  #391  
Old Posted Aug 30, 2017, 11:56 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Here's an updated pic from now showing the bush taken out (circled area), and it shows the proximity to the neighbor's yard.

Keep the suggestions coming.


private image upload
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  #392  
Old Posted Aug 31, 2017, 4:13 AM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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I did some work in the area where I took out the bush. I found working drippers in the area. I'll be able to run some new emitters to where I want to plant the tree. I'm adding the Texas Mountain Laure to my list. Anyone have any experience with this tree?

https://www.moonvalleynurseries.com/...ountain-laurel
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  #393  
Old Posted Aug 31, 2017, 12:35 PM
gymratmanaz gymratmanaz is offline
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I thought there would be drippers or at least a place to add. YEAH!!!!! I love Crape Myrtles!!!!! Add some color. Loses leaves in winter but they make beautiful color late spring through summer.
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  #394  
Old Posted Sep 22, 2017, 3:40 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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I'll be putting my winter grass in next weekend - anyone have suggestions on whether to get perennial or annual rye grass? I've always used annual rye grass since it won't survive the summer anyway. Are there any other benefits to getting perennial rye grass? Is it worth a few extra bucks?
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  #395  
Old Posted Sep 22, 2017, 4:24 PM
Red Robot Red Robot is offline
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Perennial rye grass won’t grow as quickly, use as much water, or require as frequent of mowing. It’s worth the extra expense. It tends to be a little darker green as well, and makes little mess by comparison. Avoid the temptation to overseed too heavily, it will just snuff out your summer lawn and prevent it from returning until monsoon season. A little goes a long ways. Top dressing is unnecessary if you wait a couple weeks longer for cooler daytime temps.

I stopped overseeding entirely a few years ago, my Bermuda lawn stays green through Thanksgiving and comes out of dormancy in late February. Winter rye is such a stressor on Bermuda and causes lawns to look terrible in late spring and summer when they could be absorbing a lot of daytime heat.

I understand the appeal though, just go easy on the seed and you can find better balance for both lawns.
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  #396  
Old Posted Sep 27, 2017, 6:46 PM
biggus diggus biggus diggus is offline
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All correct information posted by Red Robot.

I seed with Perennial and seed sparingly, the yard always looks good. You can help wake the Bermuda wake up a little better by feeding it in early spring, I didn't feed this year until August and June/July looked awful.

Mine from a couple of weeks ago, had to back off the water severely to help it into dormancy or the winter lawn wont take.

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  #397  
Old Posted Sep 27, 2017, 7:04 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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Yeah I fertilized my lawn in August with Milorganite and it's looked amazing since then. I've had the water off for 5 days now and it's still bright green. I plan to cut it back this weekend and then spread the seed. I'll get perrenial and be sure not to over-seed. Thanks for all the advice.
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  #398  
Old Posted Sep 27, 2017, 7:12 PM
biggus diggus biggus diggus is offline
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Interesting you had luck with Milogranite, I tried it last year and got nothing. Switched it up to Scott's and the yard exploded with green almost instantly.

Also, don't forget to fertilize with some seed starter when you spread the seed, it makes all the difference in the world.
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  #399  
Old Posted Sep 27, 2017, 9:41 PM
nickw252 nickw252 is offline
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That was the first time I ever used Milorganite. A friend of mine in Cleveland had really good luck with it on Kentucky Bluegrass so I gave it a try. I was very happy with it. I think it's about the greenest and thickest I've ever seen my Bermuda Grass (caveat: I replaced all sprinkler heads this summer so I was getting better watering).

I'll be sure to use the seed starter fertilizer and will probably go with Perennial Rye.
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  #400  
Old Posted Sep 27, 2017, 9:44 PM
biggus diggus biggus diggus is offline
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