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  #41  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 8:23 PM
sergit sergit is offline
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I see we have another 'South-North' war here
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  #42  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 8:27 PM
twoNeurons twoNeurons is offline
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I have friends who grew up in North Van... they say "When you live on the north shore, you can't imagine living anywhere else..." and then you move out (they moved to Coquitlam) and you realize there's life outside of North Vancouver, too.
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  #43  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 8:29 PM
sergit sergit is offline
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Sure, now is the best time of the year I think. Esp. September- early October.
Wait till winter with freezing rains mixed with blizzards and snowfalls. But it sure has more sunny days too when if you drive 1-2 hours you can get nice cross-county skiing.
This summer stayed unbelievably hot and humid for weeks. No fun to be outside (plus the city smog)
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Originally Posted by Pinion View Post
I absolutely hate Vancouver's weather, but I grew up in Sydney where the weather is pretty much perfect.

My wife is visiting a friend in Toronto right now and is saying she likes it better there than Vancouver. I've never been that far east, but from a distance it seems like a better fit for me too. I don't give a damn about mountains or hiking or the few things Vancouver is known for. Although I do love the ocean breeze when it is not clogged up by the city's unusually high number of smokers (by Canadian standards - of course most of the smokers are not Canadian).

My parents moved to the Upper Capilano area when I was young and that was the worst for rain. Just constant HARD rain in the winter, even when it was okay everywhere else. I still live on the north shore, since I like the "culture," but at the bottom of the hill near the inlet where the mountains have minimal effect.
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  #44  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 8:36 PM
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Originally Posted by twoNeurons View Post
I have friends who grew up in North Van... they say "When you live on the north shore, you can't imagine living anywhere else..." and then you move out (they moved to Coquitlam) and you realize there's life outside of North Vancouver, too.
I would prefer to not live on the north shore, but couldn't afford around SE False Creek/Cambie/Kits. It's better than most areas still - besides the part around second narrows.

There is definitely north shore snobbery though, I agree.

I have lived in "SoMa" and Burnaby and was thoroughly unimpressed. All the rain of Vancouver with none of the natural benefits. Especially Burnaby, ugh. All the crows you can eat, though.
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  #45  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 8:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sergit View Post
LOL to 'semi doable'.
I meant to say - is rent of a townhouse or semi-detached house possible/practical? The reason I asked - looking through the threads I got an idea that there much more high-rise condos in Vancouver and even suburbs then in Toronto. We have this condos in Toronto too of course but outside of the city it is almost entirely 2-store houses and townhouses
I came from Calgary in '02 and have absolutely no plans to leave. We initially rented in the west end which I love. Bought a condo in the same area. Big difference for me from Calgary is being able to walk. This of course is dependable on where you live and work.

For rain it really isn't as bad as it sounds. Many "rain days" are only a little shower here and there. The biggest thing instead is the greyness and low cloud level, especially compared to bright (but cold) Calgary winters.

But the payoff is a longer spring and summer - by far the best months tend to be August through October. Just when you are reaching your level the cherry blossoms come out in February and a very bright sunny days emerge and you quickly forget the last couple of months.
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  #46  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 9:28 PM
SpikePhanta SpikePhanta is offline
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Originally Posted by Pinion View Post

I have lived in "SoMa" and Burnaby and was thoroughly unimpressed. All the rain of Vancouver with none of the natural benefits. Especially Burnaby, ugh. All the crows you can eat, though.
haha, all the 15 million crows of metrovancouver nest at Burnaby lake

Anyways, I would suggest West End, even though its a bit pricy, but you get stanley park and the beaches, and transit to go to any other parts of metrovancouver.
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  #47  
Old Posted Sep 9, 2010, 9:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Zassk View Post
Having lived here all my life, and also lived a year in Ottawa, some thoughts -

It's true that November feels worse here. Vancouver is farther north than Ottawa/Toronto - you wouldn't think that would make much difference, but the sunlight starts 1/2 hour later and ends 1/2 hour earlier in winter, and it makes a difference psychologically. Add the clouds and humidity, and it feels incredibly depressing.

On the other hand, February is firmly Spring in Vancouver, while it is firmly Winter Storm season in Ontario. So while we have a dreary fall, we have a much much nicer spring than Ontario. And we get a "real" spring - not just two weeks of transition around May 1st like Ontario gets, but 3 full months of awesome springlike conditions.

As for the difference between North Shore vs. Richmond - I think some of the remarks on this thread are wishful thinking by those who live close to the mountains. At least half of the days that are forecast as "cloudy" or "possible showers" have dark clouds on the North Shore but bright/blue skies down in the Fraser delta. There is a significant difference, and it's quite obvious to those of us to the south who can look north and see conditions at the mountains. Extra clouds are the price you pay for living next to the awesome mountain recreation.
I'll have to agree with my BC brethren here.

I've lived through a lot of BC Springs, and I grew up in a town rainier than Vancouver (yes it exists).

And yes, the last few springs have been somewhat lame. But not too long ago we had a long stretch of amazing springs. I remember skipping classes in high school in May to go swimming in the lake. I remember going to April finals at University in shorts and tshirt and the gym they were in being like being an oven. The occasional frontal system goes through where it rains constantly for a few days, but I find, historically, that the weather from March onward is typically better than it is bad.

And typically, September and October are pretty good too. This year is a bit off, because I remember every single first day of class I've ever had to be an unbearable scorcher of a day where you wish you were anywhere but school, and that would last for weeks worth of torture. Even as late as Halloween, I remember only 1 or 2 October 31st where it was really raining.

November and December are usually the rainiest and January is mostly cold. But it's different than Ontario rain. In Ontario when it rains, it pours. In Vancouver, when it rains, it just rains, sometimes briefly, sometimes lightly, sometimes it's windy. The most popular is drizzle, like where there is just too much moisture to be foggy, so it just lightly rains. It's annoying, I guess for people not used to days of it on end, but I survive most days without a hood or umbrella, and the only thing I find annoying is that my glasses get wet that it's hard to see. Then you usually have that break of 3 or 4 days of sunshine. It will be bellow freezing in the morning (and by that I mean no worse than -5), but the frost typically melts before noon and at lunch time it's almost like a spring day (except some of the trees look dead). Throw in the occasional inversion and snow storm, and Vancouver winter weather is really quite a bit more than just rain.

The plus side is that we don't get ice. There are 2 or 3 full days of really icy roads in Vancouver all year. It's never so cold that I've needed a special pair of snow pants, and have never worn long johns off a mountain, and I only wear gloves if I'm standing outside waiting for a bus. The year before last was freakish in that snow stayed on the ground for more than 1 day. The City of Victoria famously sold their snowplows one year (after not using them at all for several years), only to have one of the snowiest months ever the next year. But I think all my life I've had 3 white Christmases.

But if you like the outdoors, a lot, the weather is great. Just get waterproof shoes and jacket and hit the trails almost any day of the year. Or just wait for the sunny days. I find there are enough of them to do plenty outdoors.

And it really is less rainy south of the Fraser. There have been plenty of days this past spring and summer when I've left home in Surrey where it's sunny and hot, only to get to downtown Vancouver and be glad I brought a jacket. And when I lived in White Rock, there were days I was walking on the boardwalk in a light sweater while my friends in Vancouver were huddled under umbrellas.
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  #48  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 12:29 AM
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There are lots of great places to live in Vancouver and outside of where you work I think the two major things are what do you like to do and whether you have young kids/old kids/no kids, that kind of thing. I grew up in West Van my whole life and now live in lower lonsdale (North Van). I like being on the North Shore as it is close to my family and what I like to do (ski, golf, hike). I'm moving to SEFC in 2 years as I really like the whole area around the Olympic Village and it's close enough to downtown without being in downtown. It will probably be a bit of a pain in the ass to get over to the s shore but I'll deal with it. The bridges can be a pain in the ass. The Lions Gate can downright suck weekdays (esp. Friday) between 3pm-7pm. If you have a family being on the North Shore can be expensive because you'll likely need 3 or more bedrooms. There are all sorts of townhomes and houses to rent though, it just depends on how much money you have. Deep Cove is a really nice area in the summer time but really dark and rainy the rest of the year. Because of where the sun sets and how low it is in the sky it's can be very dark from 2pm onwards from October-March. It is also somewhat secluded from shops/services.

I will eventually move back to the shore when it's time to raise a family and I hope to be able to afford West Van. People might say I'm a snob and North Van is just as good, and it may be, but my golf club is in West Van and I ski at Whistler so it is just that much closer. I'd be happy in North Van though.

The westside of Vancouver is very nice. Outside of a couple somewhat-dense areas (Broadway, Kitsilano, Kerrisdale) it is mainly expensive single-family homes. It's close enough to downtown, has lots of parks, beaches are fairly close, good schools, and shops/services aren't too far away. Many would argue it's the best Vancouver has to offer (and why prices are so high).

You can get a whole lot more for your money outside of Vancouver. Parts of Port Moody/Coquitlam are gorgeous and there is lots of hiking/outdoorsy stuff there, just no skiing. If you have a reason to be downtown it can be a pain, but otherwise everything you'd ever really need is within a 15 minute drive. Burnaby is closer to downtown, but kinda has it's own downtown in Metrotown. Biggest mall in the in whole city. I don't know much about Burnaby, it just seems to be stuck in the middle. I'd look at areas close to SFU mainly because that's closer to outdoorsy stuff for me. Burnaby doesn't do it for me, if I'm going to spend time in a car I'd rather spend 10-15 minutes longer and be in Coquitlam I think.

I hate Richmond. It's flat and stupid (my opinion). It's one big grid with lots of strip centres and poor drivers. Steveston is kinda neat, but not enough of a reason to live there.

White Rock/South Surrey is beautiful, close to the border, and has everything you'll ever need except a movie theatre. It is also really far away from downtown. If you have a family and want space it's a great place to be. If you want to go to concerts, canucks/lions games, not so much.

Surrey and Langley have nice areas but I see no reason to be that far away from everything unless you need a house. And I'd go insane dealing with the bridge traffic, the Port Mann is congested 13 hours a day (though after 2013 this will change).

You'll get different opinions from people who live or have grown up in different areas. I used to work with two guys who lived in Surrey, one in Fleetwood one in Cloverdale. One had a family, one was starting one. They grew up there themselves and had family there and wanted larger homes and backyards. They loved it. They also left for work (downtown) before 6am, and would have to leave at 4 to get home before 6. I couldn't understand it.
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  #49  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 12:54 AM
sergit sergit is offline
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Wow! lots of great info here. Thank you guys. I appreciate it.

I live in Richmond Hill now (Hill? there is no hills) and you just described it
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Originally Posted by awvan View Post
I hate Richmond. It's flat and stupid (my opinion). It's one big grid with lots of strip centres and poor drivers.
No kids (one on her own and might move to Van later - they both with her boyfriend work in animation and Vancouver is the place to be, at least if you want to stay in Canada)
Don't have to drive to work - work from home.
Basically the choice is more rain and more nature or more sun and more city.
Something to think about

What's SEFC?
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  #50  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 1:21 AM
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SEFC is South East False Creek - where the Olympic Village is.

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They also left for work (downtown) before 6am, and would have to leave at 4 to get home before 6. I couldn't understand it.
Yea, I don't get it either. Driving less than 50kph all the way home would drive me nuts.
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  #51  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 3:53 AM
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Buy a condo a OV, and invite a few hundred of your Toronto friends to do the same.

Take a look a Gastown/Crosstown while you're looking, might be a good idea to rent out a furnished apt for a month and see where you end up spending most of your time, then find a place in that area.
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  #52  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 4:05 AM
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depends if you rent or buy

renting i like kits or main street/mt pleasant not too cheap though in kits but a stroll at the beach is a great way to start the day - my friend lives like a few blocks from it and its nice there befre the people arrive to sit and look at it all
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  #53  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 4:38 AM
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I live in Kits myself. Dispite what some people may tell you, there are no hippies. I'm sure there are people in their 60s that are former hippies, but that is where it ends. There's a small handful of retail remaining that reminds us of what once was in the late 60s and early 70s. I could go on and on about why I like Kits... a lot of it comes back to where it is situated in the city - easy access to other great places.
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  #54  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 6:21 AM
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As a native Vancouverite, who has lived in many other parts of the world, here's my take on Vancouver's weather:

As someone else mentioned, it's not the amount of rain that can wear on you (Boston, for example, gets more precipitation than Vancouver on a yearly basis), but the low cloud and sunless days. It's not uncommon for weeks to go by without sun--especially in November. By the end, it can get taxing.

It doesn't upset me because this is a rain forest. Just because Vancouverites have been able to build a multi-million resident metropolis, does not mean that it is no longer a rain forest. It would be like moving to Tucson and getting upset at the heat from June through August.
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  #55  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 8:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sergit View Post
LOL to 'semi doable'.
I meant to say - is rent of a townhouse or semi-detached house possible/practical? The reason I asked - looking through the threads I got an idea that there much more high-rise condos in Vancouver and even suburbs then in Toronto. We have this condos in Toronto too of course but outside of the city it is almost entirely 2-store houses and townhouses
While semi-detached houses are not common in Vancouver. What is very common is basement suites. Also houses split into 3 sections (1 up 2 down). Also laneway houses are just starting. Of course in all those cases you can only rent.

Townhouses can be rented. I'm sure you could even find a condo to rent. Condo also doesn't have to mean tower. There are a lot of condos that are in 4-5 story buildings. In these cases they can also be bought as well if you desire.

Then of course there is your detached home.

Of course this all depends on what size place you'd like to rent.
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  #56  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 1:29 PM
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I live in Kits myself. Dispite what some people may tell you, there are no hippies. I'm sure there are people in their 60s that are former hippies, but that is where it ends. There's a small handful of retail remaining that reminds us of what once was in the late 60s and early 70s. I could go on and on about why I like Kits... a lot of it comes back to where it is situated in the city - easy access to other great places.
i lived in kits for years - loved it. I'd be back in a flash but was sick of the prices. Sold up and moved to the north shore.

there are many unwarranted sterotypes about kits, i found it quite a mixed bag of people really.
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  #57  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 2:35 PM
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Burnaby is closer to downtown, but kinda has it's own downtown in Metrotown. Biggest mall in the in whole city. I don't know much about Burnaby, it just seems to be stuck in the middle.

I'd look at areas close to SFU mainly because that's closer to outdoorsy stuff for me. Burnaby doesn't do it for me, if I'm going to spend time in a car I'd rather spend 10-15 minutes longer and be in Coquitlam I think.
One of its main advantages is being central. Excellent access by SkyTrain (11 stations), 10 minutes to downtown, a few minutes to the freeway, a few minutes to everywhere. A mini-Korea near Lougheed Mall. A few nice areas are Deer Lake, SFU, Edmonds Willingdon Heights, Capital Hill. Supposedly the best managed municipal government in Canada as well. Also has excellent biking infrastructure. Saying all that, it seems that it's full of these little hidden communities everywhere.

Coquitlam's okay, but to be honest... the traffic there is brutal and it's just too far from downtown.
Quote:
I hate Richmond. It's flat and stupid (my opinion). It's one big grid with lots of strip centres and poor drivers. Steveston is kinda neat, but not enough of a reason to live there.
Being flat has its advantages when it comes to biking. The dikes are great to ride around. Richmond has some of the best Asian food around and is pretty close to being an out-of-country city.

The Drivers, though... I used to think they had bad drivers but I realize it's not that they have bad drivers, they just have a lot of inconsiderate and rude drivers... which is more or less the same thing I suppose. They all drive BMWs and Mercedes. It's a status thing, I'm told.
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  #58  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 8:53 PM
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as i said, marginal at best. It's not like people are heading to the south for a better climate. besides, other than a slightly better climalte and cheaper housing, i can't think of any other reasons to move there.

We considered white rock but once you get away from the beach front, i found the place very lacking and run down.
Interesting assessment. I have lived in Port Moody most of my life, with the exception of 4 years in South Langley (similar weather to White Rock it seemed). I find the difference in weather between the two areas to be staggering.

The rainfall stats suggest this as well:
Vancouver 1285mm
North Van (Capilano) 2044mm
Coquitlam 1924mm
Langley 1486mm
White Rock1102mm
Surrey 1409mm
Abbotsford 1573

There are countless days on the weekend in the spring/fall when my wife and I escape the dark cloud that hangs over Port Moody and head to South Surrey, where we can walk along Crescent Beach/White Rock in the sun with a gentle breeze.

It's not even so much the rain or the clouds, it's the darkness that exists on the north side. Port Moody, especially being surrounded by mountains it blocks alot of natural light and the sun sets a little bit earlier. There is nothing worse than sitting in 45 minutes in traffic on the Moody Street overpass at 4:30 on a Friday night, dumping buckets of rain on a dark, dark November night.

At least the North Shore slopes downwards and you have some natural light looking south.

And why else would anyone move to White Rock/South Surrey? How about because it's one of the most desirable areas in the Metro? Close to beaches, golf courses and tons of recreation (not skiing of course) with a small town, laid back feel? Also one of the safest most community oriented areas around? Or is because it's one of the most economically progressive? The area reeks of prosperity (call me crazy but I prefer this kind of atmosphere than one crawling with unemployed hipsters who spend all day at organic coffee shops).

Sure the old strip might be hokey and run down, but White Rock is considered by many to be the jewel of Metro Van. The only major drawback being it's proximity to DT Vancouver (which many of the residents see as a blessing). If you plopped this area where East Van or Burnaby is, it would arguably be the most desirable area in the Lower Mainland.

I'd move there in a second if my wife didn't work in the city, as her commute time is the only think keeping us in Port Moody.

But hey, I might be a little resentful too if I had to commute from North Van to S. Surrey everyday.

Last edited by Blake; Sep 10, 2010 at 9:12 PM.
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  #59  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 9:05 PM
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Actually White Rock is fairly close to skiing. Mt. Baker is a relatively short hop across the border. You have to actually like the skiing though, not the 3 hours of cruising groomers-to-apres-to-hot tub-to-condo type skiing.
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  #60  
Old Posted Sep 10, 2010, 9:26 PM
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Quote:
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And why else would anyone move to White Rock/South Surrey? How about because it's one of the most desirable areas in the Metro? Close to beaches, golf courses and tons of recreation (not skiing of course) with a small town, laid back feel? Also one of the safest most community oriented areas around? Or is because it's one of the most economically progressive? The area reeks of prosperity... White Rock is considered by many to be the jewel of Metro Van.
Couldn't agree more. As a matter of fact, in the past decade there has been a wave of well-healed Vancouverites dumping their Vancouver homes and moving out here for those very reasons - and they still commute to Vancouver.

It's the small beach-town California-like feel - the beaches, the palms, the ambiance, cut-off from the rest of the world by tranquille farmland. I've lived here for 6 years moving from Tsawwassen where I spent the earlier part of my life.

And Tsawwassen is another great laid-back place - the beaches, summer-night fires on the beach, the sunsets, horse-back riding along the beach in Point Roberts, golf courses, cycling along the Boundary Bay foreshore, etc.

I can also verify that Tsawwassen, "land of the sun god/devils", is the sunniest place in Metro Vancouver. Many times in my life coming home from rainy/cloudy Vancouver the sun has broken out in Tsawwassen and looking back at Vancouver/North Shore it's cloudy and dark.

And yet I'm also in downtown Vancouver for a few days/week and on weekends and go skiing/snowboarding at Whistler.

It's all about lifestyle and and personal preferences. In that vein, I personally could never live in a proverbial bird cage in a hectic high-rise concrete jungle.

BTW, I still recall one winter, as a kid, whereby north of the George Massey Tunnel 8 - 12 inches of snow lay on the ground right after a snowfall through to the North Shore, but when driving southbound thru the GMT it was all bare and dry on the southern side - quite surreal actually.

Last edited by Stingray2004; Sep 10, 2010 at 9:41 PM.
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