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  #1  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 7:44 AM
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Seattle's MLK Way: Empire Rebuilder



MLK is the road that every town seems to have, just like Main Street, yet we often have the wrong idea of what Main Street looks like, thinking it's a gabled-cupolaed-boardwalk-storefront type place that only truly exists in Nassau County, Massachusetts and tidewater preservation districts.

We often have the wrong picture of roads named MLK, assuming they must be in an African-American part of town, the avenues of hoopties, check cashing places and sad murals. We often forget that neighborhoods can change, and that neighborhoods never change, and that the true picture of today's MLK involves a bit of the past, the near past, yesterday, today, and tomorrow.

Seattle's MLK is a road with multiple personalities, weaving through many "black" parts of town but always weaving back into the rest of what makes Seattle Seattle. Truth be told, the road is mostly Asian these days, reflecting the most recent immigration patterns up here. But there is still a strong African-American presence, not to mention new infill development which is altering the racial demographics into nearly equal thirds.

What's most peculiar to me about MLK is not the road itself, as I'm a big city person and love the shuffled deck of multicultural cards. It's that nobody in Seattle outside of the area knows the first thing about this road, one of the only major arterial roads in South Seattle. It is through MLK's median that several miles of the new Sound Transit Link light rail system is funneled, and therefore MLK will be the face of Seattle for many thousands of first-time visitors who take the train downtown from the airport. Yet you'll never hear this road mentioned in any other part of town.

While everyone had forgotten about this street, it has managed to refashion itself without fanfare, first from Empire Way (its original name) to its current name, and then today's MLK which accommodates mass transit and infill. Here is the road for the entirety of its "multimodal" existence:

Mount Baker station is where the light rail line descends from the hills and joins MLK, at Rainier. Calling it Mount Baker station is kind of like calling the Morgan stop on the L train Williamsburg (vis-a-vis Brooklyn), but the neighborhoods change name very quickly at this axis.





MLK is the road from left to right (southwest to north-northeast). Rainier Avenue is in front; downtown is 3 miles ahead. This is the intersection where MLK becomes a major thoroughfare instead of the more residential road it seems like through the Central District.



Rainier and MLK (MLK mostly not visible). MLK never hits anywhere near downtown.



This used to be the ghetto of ghetto in Seattle until recently. (only in Seattle would the ghetto have a Starbucks!)





Some buildings were abandoned and simply left to become artifacts as the neighborhood changed hands. When did phone numbers still have names like this? 1965? (This is not on MLK but a block over, still worth sharing)



60 years, then a quick death





From the elevated Mount Baker station, the tracks lower into the median



United House of Prayer For All People





By the time you reach Andover Street, it's mostly Asian businesses:



Empire Lumber (80 year old building, abandoned not too long after Empire Way ceased to be)



Infill is the new conqueror across the street:



Soon this will have consequence:



One of my favorite street names in Seattle, Genesee Street. It's only a block-long stub right here, but the new apartments to the right are called "The Genesee"



I'm glad Nevada voted for Obama, there may someday be an Obama Boulevard in Seattle.



A new columbian way - market-rate apartments and a short walk to the next light rail station...



But not 'til 2009 (see the people waiting for the buses that will soon be rerouted)



This neighborhood doesn't have the money for pluralism.



Columbia City station on Link light rail. Again, naming this Columbia City is a bit of a stretch, as the real Columbia City is centered about 5-7 minutes east along Rainier Avenue. But it is considered "true CC" by many, so I'll quit my bitching. (Do you see the tallest monument to the Cascadian Empire in the faint distance?)



O, public art, how I love to hate you. (And what does a magnifying glass have to do with Columbia City? Lookie here, gentrify me?)



MiMi's garishly cute Photo & Video



I've been living in a hole; my mouth dropped when I saw this price. Then I snapped a picture for evidence:



Pinoy power! The Filipino Community Center. If we were to rename this street today, it would be something like Corazon Aquino Boulevard perhaps.



Moving in and out of the neighborhood:



Apparently, there's only one restaurant.



Oh, this better be for easy maintenance, because real palm trees grow just fine here.



The Othello Link light rail station, and my camera doing a pretty cool hiccup:



Smile and wait for the station to open!



I like Othello, that's creative. Link, however, is the lamest light rail name EVER.



Ambiguous ethnic models wanted for model home advertisement!



Oh, Seattle's well-intentioned but tacky racial rainbow chasing! Let's stick some random happy dancing ethnic women public art in front of this absolutely dire 1960's abandoned shopping center. That's the ticket.



I am guessing this man didn't name it Hart because his surname is Hart (the driver was an elderly Asian man - I am not stereotyping, but Hart is not the normal surname amongst Hanoiers, right?) Also, see radiocarbon dated Safeway in background.



Surprisingly rural for a side street to a choo choo trolley...



MLK is behind this house, so it counts, ok?



At present, "link"ing us nowhere:







Thanks, but I think the trains run on their own generators...
And I'll get my foods elsewheres.



The new emperor charges off into the distance. (MLK is below the cliff, leading towards Renton and Southcenter Mall) The reigning road in town, though, is Interstate 5, which is across the valley.



9.5 miles ahead is downtown. This is Chief Sealth Trail, a fitting person to have named a bike path after, since he both rode bikes and loved electricity.

And below is the road that started it all, MLK Way. A pillar of Seattle's infrastructure whether you feel for what this road has been through or not.



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Last edited by arbeiter; Nov 26, 2008 at 7:59 AM.
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  #2  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 7:47 AM
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Here is a link to the map of MLK based on these photos.
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  #3  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 3:01 PM
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Really interesting... I've never noticed those old abandoned buildings (i.e. Empire Lumber)....probably won't be long until new development springs up along the Link light rail line. You know, for me personally, I don't mind the 'Link' name-it is what it is I guess..... great thread of an area not seen on here frequently!
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Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 3:14 PM
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Great thread. It's interesting to see out-of-the-way areas of Seattle captured on here. Thanks!
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  #5  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 5:24 PM
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Very different views of Seattle
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  #6  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 6:12 PM
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Great tour! Thanks for all your effort going around the place down there! We'd probably never see any of it posted here otherwise.

This shows how much Seattle still has to densify in-city areas that say Vancouver B.C. would have densified years ago.
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  #7  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 7:12 PM
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Love the commentary. Good to see that not all MLK streets in the country run through neighborhoods that have seen better days (the Walnut Hills/Mt. Auburn portions of Cincinnati's MLK Boulevard comes to mind)

I'm so freaking sick of sunshine that it was a second blessing to see all the clouds and gray in these photos
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  #8  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 8:38 PM
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Parts of MLK really are sparse, and the street in general doesn't go past any major nodes. Like the whole Rainier Valley, MLK has never been very prosperous, and it's missed out on most of the densification trend that's added 1,200/sm to Seattle in a little over two decades if you believe the estimates.

Rainier Vista (in photos) is good, but it doesn't reflect market trends -- it's simply a denser, mixed-income rebuild of public housing. But plenty of stuff is planned. From the pictures, examples include a midrise on the Chubby & Tubby site, and a couple of 350-unit midrise projects on sites next to Othello Station.

Even with Link and projects like the ones I mentioned, MLK won't have any of Seattle's denser neighborhoods or larger nodes in the foreseeable future. Rail-less, bus-focused districts like Ballard, Fremont, and Admiral will keep outpacing its growth and density long-term because they have prosperous surroundings, midrise zoning, plenty of buildable commercial land, and more general desirability. But Link will make MLK a much more desirable area. I hope it keeps it ethnic variety while densifying.
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  #9  
Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 8:53 PM
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Nice pictures. Long-exposure shots are always entertaining. Glad you documented something other than downtown and its vicinity.
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Old Posted: Nov 26, 2008, 10:25 PM
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Mhays, are you saying that those sites are going to have buildings in height starting in the 8-10 floor range?
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  #11  
Old Posted: Nov 27, 2008, 6:32 AM
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Here are the three projects I mentioned. I generally call five and six story buildings midrises though that's not universal.

August 28, 2007
365 Rainier Valley units, retail
Location: Seattle, 4200 S. Othello St.

Project: Six-story, 365-unit residential building with 15,300 square feet of retail at grade; parking for 260 vehicles will be located within the structure; related to project 3006405

August 28, 2007
352 Rainier Valley units, retail
Location: Seattle, 7300 Martin Luther King Jr. Way S.

Project: Six-story, 352-unit residential development with 17,000 square feet of retail at grade; parking for 233 vehicles will be located within the structure; related to project 3007649

September 22, 2008
58 Rainier Valley units, retail
Location: Seattle, 3333 Rainier Ave. S.

Project: Six-story, 58-unit residential building with 5,100 square feet of retail at ground level; parking for 48 vehicles at and below grade; existing Chubby and Tubby structure to be demolished; related to project 3008738
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