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  #1  
Old Posted Nov 25, 2014, 7:08 PM
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østerbro is cool enough for me (copenhagen)

although i love living in østerbro, the consensus among my more copenhagen-savvy (i have only been living here since may) peers is near-unanimous: østerbro isn't that cool.

cool, they tell me, is to be found in vesterbro, in nørrebro. there are even some people who have ventured that amager is cool (they are not correct), but nobody thinks østerbro is cool.

instead, østerbro is derided as boring, even as kind of foo-foo. in new york terms, we are park slope if not the upper east side. in montreal terms, we are lower westmount. among the many elements of østerbro life that are commonly mocked are our supposed over-reliance on organic food, our ostensible love of yoga and our affinity for parenthood and all its expensive, multi-wheeled, sidewalk-blocking accoutrements.

i think it's a bit unfair, honestly. first of all, though østerbro is sometimes classified as some sort of la-di-da upper middle-ish wasteland, this is a fairly egalitarian city. more precisely, i know a lot of people in 'edgy' vesterbro and nørrebro whose rent is the same or more than mine per square meter. secondly, although it is true that we have relatively few bars (and only one that is open past 3 a.m.), you only need one good neighborhood bar and i have it: kitjn, on århusgade. for the rest, i take the bus, train or my bike (drunken cycling is a fun copenhagen thing).

thirdly, i never leave my home to find that someone has either pissed or vomited on my door. my friend in vesterbro cannot say the same.

so here it is: the sedate, the ornate, the relatively unpissed-upon østerbro. i think it's just fine. it's even kind of hyggelig.







the MIGHTY S-TOG approaches østerport station. østerbro is served by two train stations, with this being the larger of the two (two metro stations are currently under construction). from østerport you can get on the city lines (the s-tog) or take trains to sweden, other parts of denmark or to the airport.



østerbrogade is the main commercial street in østerbro.









at trianglen, østerbrogade meets the secondary commercial street of nordre frihavnsgade as well as blegdamsvej (which leads to sankt hans torv and nørrebro).



i am posting a few photos of trianglen because trianglen is a big deal if you live in østerbro.





nordre frihavnsgade (full østerbro disclosure: i went to yoga on this street once but it was because my girlfriend got a free pass and plus i was a tiny bit in the doghouse that weekend):



sankt jakobs plads (they are setting up a christmas tree market here, which is useful since i was wondering where i was going to get one):





these little houses are tucked behind trianglen and back onto the giant fælledparken, where all of us østerbro people run around like pointless, spandex-clad, fitbit-chained chickens if you are to believe our detractors.





the lakes are the remnants of inner copenhagen's old moat system. the construction site here is related to the metro, but i don't believe its going to be a station. its some sort of maintenance tunnel or something, and it provides our otherwise view-gifted friends with a series of loud explosions every morning.



the lakes are about four feet deep but i guess maybe you can fish? i have never seen this attempted before.





these little houses are to be found on the border of østerbro and the inner city to our southwest. these were built in the 1600s to house sailors in the navy, and many of their residents still have ties to the danish military.







now we head down store kongensgade (great king street) into central copenhagen. unlike many cities, copenhagen's inner residential neighborhoods are often built at a slightly larger scale than its center as the center is much older, featuring small lots and old houses from when copenhagen was a walled city.







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  #2  
Old Posted Nov 25, 2014, 7:58 PM
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Looks like a good neighborhood to me. Thanks for the tour. Do you plan on living in Copenhagen long term?
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  #3  
Old Posted Nov 25, 2014, 8:01 PM
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i didn't move here with a sort of "and this is where i will stay for the rest of my life" goal, but neither is it intrinsically temporary. i live and work here on an open-ended basis and would like to do so for a while.

it's a good city
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  #4  
Old Posted Nov 25, 2014, 8:29 PM
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Very nice indeed. Thanks for the tour
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Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 2:26 AM
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cool story, bro
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  #6  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 5:00 AM
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So how's it like living there as an English speaker? I know many (if not all) of the residents there speak English but do you feel connected to the city in an "I AM from Copenhagen" kind of way or is it still foreign-feeling as you do not speak Danish fluently?
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  #7  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 7:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColDayMan View Post
So how's it like living there as an English speaker? I know many (if not all) of the residents there speak English but do you feel connected to the city in an "I AM from Copenhagen" kind of way or is it still foreign-feeling as you do not speak Danish fluently?


well, i certainly don't feel like i am from here. i have residency, though, and i work here, so it doesn't feel like an extended vacation either. in terms of english, i work in the language and it's possible to conduct one's life in english here, from shops to government stuff.

most of our friends are either expats or danish people who are married to or dating an expat, so there is a sense that the english-speaking world in copenhagen is pretty big and varied. that said, i am taking danish classes and can already read signs and headlines and such, even if my spoken pronunciation needs to get (a lot) better... so i recognize that you need the language to be a full part of things and all.
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  #8  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 9:01 AM
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thanks for the tour! copenhagen looks like oslo, if all the buildings had an extra story and bikes dominated the cityscape. generally, though, the city seems a bit more grand and continental-like than oslo, of which is much more...humble? fitting enough, though, considering it was basically a fishing outpost before oil
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  #9  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 9:30 AM
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these inner-ring areas are more grandly scaled (and continental in that viennese sense) than is the center. they arose almost at once in the late 1900s after the walls around the old city were taken down... nørrebro, vesterbro and østerbro sprang up overnight, basically. it must have been quite a sight as all these farm fields and estates turned into rows of apartments in the space of a decade or two, and it had the effect of surrounding a jumbled and kind of humble city center with these fairly grand (for scandinavia) ordered rows.
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  #10  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 10:19 AM
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Looks cosy.

Odd question, but what does CPN smell like? I'm thinking it probably smells pretty good just by looking at these pics.
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  #11  
Old Posted Nov 26, 2014, 10:47 AM
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coming from pristina, which has a very distinct winter smell of exhaust and burning paint/tires/cats (people just throw whatever into their wood stoves), copenhagen is pretty fresh and scentless by comparison. you can vaguely tell you are on the sea, and pollution is minimal. aside from the ubiquitous hot dog wagons and their immediate environs, copenhagen smells similar to any random patch of coastal danish countryside.
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  #12  
Old Posted Nov 27, 2014, 2:40 AM
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Looks nice enough. It doesn't hurt either that you can get around by bike. And while drunk?!
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  #13  
Old Posted Nov 27, 2014, 9:43 AM
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I love these pictures! Congratulations on your move.
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  #14  
Old Posted Nov 27, 2014, 12:47 PM
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I love a danish so I'd probably dig that city.
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  #15  
Old Posted Nov 27, 2014, 1:12 PM
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weirdly, danish pastries are called wienerbrød, or "viennese bread" here.
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  #16  
Old Posted Nov 27, 2014, 3:34 PM
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I think that Østerbro is "hyggelig", been there several times.
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